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Sharpen Your Teeth T 
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Sharpen Your Teeth 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tyler Kamm/Bryan Smith - 2009
Page Views: 91
Submitted By: Micah Klesick on Mar 15, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: The Martyr Closeout Closeout Direct Good Vibration...

Description 

Start in the steep and smooth corner just left of Boo Coup. Boulder up to a 2 inch cam placement, then climb up and right to the very high first bolt. Moderate terrain with natural protection leads to a bolt protecting the arete crux, while small cams and nuts protect the slabby finish up to the Boo Coup anchor.

Location 

Just left of Boo Coup, on the Main Wall

Protection 

Single set of gear to 2 inches.


Photos of Sharpen Your Teeth Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of Sharpen Your Teeth  Photo credit: Bryan S...
Start of Sharpen Your Teeth Photo credit: Bryan S...
Rock Climbing Photo: Topher pulling through the crux on Sharpen your Te...
Topher pulling through the crux on Sharpen your Te...
Rock Climbing Photo: FA Bryan Smith on his route
FA Bryan Smith on his route

Comments on Sharpen Your Teeth Add Comment
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By bryans
Apr 30, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This climb stays clean and dry but the moves onto the final ledge can be dirty as that ledge gets carpeted unless it's been cleaned. If you aren't sure, consider climbing Boo Coup first, as it gains that ledge much more easily from further right. Then clean that ledge for all of us!
By Topher Dabrowski
Apr 30, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I second Bryan's comment about cleaning it. The start is bouldery and consider pre-placing a BD0.3 equivalent cam in the small crack 7' up if you are unsure as it'll save you and your belayer some trouble. Otherwise it's a fun line with a well protected crux. The FA recommended to avoid climbing the flake 1/2 way up and instead moving further right to a better nut placement. Not intuitive but helpful beta.

Rock Climbing Photo: Topher pulling through the crux on Sharpen your Te...
Topher pulling through the crux on Sharpen your Teeth
Photo credit: Bryan Smith

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