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Emerald City
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Big Toe Arete 
Black Magic Arete 
Diamond In The Rough S 
Father's Day T 
Fictitious Egg, The 
Flying Monkeys S 
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In The Middle 
Let the Wookie Win 
Lolliop Kids S 
Mandarin TR 
My Sexy Cranberry 
No Place Like Home S 
Oz S 
Ruby Slippers S 
Saint George 
Sharp T 
Shelf Life 
Shining, The T 
Watto (SDS) 
Whiteout T 
Whiteout Direct (aka Nerds) S 
Yellow Brick Road S 
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YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Jamie Baker, Chris Linderman, 1989
Page Views: 790
Submitted By: Chris Chaney on Oct 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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The crack itself is fairly easy and secure. When the crack turns a ledge step left and pull onto a slab. Protect out of the thin crack and prctice your slab technique heading RIGHT is you want to get down safely or head left as the guidebook (and some demented individuals) recommends.

If you go right, build an anchor at the obvious bolt to TR or bring a second up.

I love this route, but some people think it's stupid. It's really a matter of taste I guess.


Walk around the corner left from the start of Whiteout and find the splitter crack near the corner.

Best bet is to rappel from a single bolt on No Place Like Home. This route really needs its own anchors.


The initial crack take progressively smaller gear from #4.5 to #1 camalot sizes. The upper slab takes small TCUs. There is no fixed gear other than a bolt on the route No Place Like Home.

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By lhrowland
From: Frankfort, Ky
Sep 20, 2011

This route now has anchors.

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