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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 210'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 81
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jul 6, 2001

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Not the second pitch of Sharkstone. I believe the ...


This is a decent 2-pitch line on the E face of Sharksfin past a large chockstone in a crack system. From near the NE corner of Sharksfin, find an obvious, polished, L-angling ramp.

P1. Use one of at least 2 starts to gain this ramp. Near the top of the ramp, move out right onto the face past an airy move, 5.7, to gain a cramped belay below the crack system.

P2. Jam a steep bit through the crux. Find a good stance. Decipher your next moves around a bit of suspect rock to get another stance below the large chockstone. Pick your exit (I believe I took the easiest one-under the chockstone) and gain the ridge. Cams protect this pitch.

From the top, you can peer down interesting lines up the W face.

To descend, we used a short traverse of the top ridge to the S end of Sharksfin and rapped the SW corner to a ledge which leads to downscrambling under a large boulder and walking terrain.


Wires, single set of cams to 3 1/2".

Photos of Sharkstone Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sharkstone P1. The "polished ramp" is ju...
Sharkstone P1. The "polished ramp" is ju...

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By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 13, 2008

See the North Face route for a photo of the start. You could also start below the right side of the east face. The "obvious polished ramp" wasn't so obvious to us. To me it was a low angle corner with a wide crack. I had fun doing easy hand stacks as I worked my feet up the low angle left wall of the corner.

We must have climbed the wrong second pitch. Our second pitch started from the highest point of the ledge, just right of a grassy area. A hard move to start led to an awkward stance from which getting gear was difficult. Another hard move led to easier but decent climbing. This felt about 5.9 or maybe 8+ pro diff. There was no large chockstone.

I think the real route is further right, up a crack past an overhanging to a medium left facing corner.

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