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Unknown Pleasures
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Leapin' Lizards S 
Oni S 
Persona Non Grata S 
Sharkfighter S 
Touch of Grey S 
Unknown 11 S 
Unknown 9 S 
Unknown Pleasures S 


YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Bill Boyle
Season: east facing
Page Views: 78
Submitted By: bheller on Jun 9, 2014

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>


A well positioned technical and relentless route that will ram you in the gills with its continually bold climbing. This route feels "old school". By today's standards there are unnecessarily spaced out bolts, bad clipping stances, and even a few straight-up poor bolt placements. Even the anchor bolts are spaced too far apart from one another. With that said, if this route were to be re-engineered(and I would put it high on the re-engineer list!), It would easily warrant at least 3 of 4 stars. This level of sustained and balancey climbing on the sometimes strange (but solid) rock is a bit of a rarity in AF. The Ruckman AF guidebook has this rated at 12b overall with a 12a crux down low and a 12a crux up higher- expect both these sections to feel 12b, and the lower crux to feel harder(especially if you're a shorty). A sneaky hands-free rest in the middle barely keeps the grade at 12b, but hey, anything goes when you're fighting a shark! Oh yeah, at the finish of the route, summon your pre-historic power and fearlessly charge through the "dorsal fin" flake moves to the steeper headwall that is airy and awesome!


Located on the first clean vertical wall found at the Unknown Pleasures wall- just right of the bolted corner (Persona Non Grata), and left of the route Unknown Pleasures. The best place to drop the ropebag is on the flat angular stones where the giant tree has fallen down slope. Be sure to use a 70m here! The start is a ledgey choss approach for about 30 feet.


Bolt only- SMC hangers. Chain anchors. Spaced bolts with a few bad clipping stances and some poor bolt locations. Potential to deck at the start if you blow the clips. 70 meter rope recommended.

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