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Shark Bait T 

Shark Bait 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Christian Thompson
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring-Summer-Fall
Page Views: 330
Submitted By: Christian Thompson on May 13, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Photo of Shark Bait 5.9+/10a

Description 

Most likely the longest Trad route at Laclede. Boulder the thin crack left of a menacing looking off-width to a small ledge at the top of the off-width. Placing your first piece could be tricky (first crux). Then, continue up steep terrain stemming and jamming your way to easier ground and leads to a square overhang(2nd crux, 9+/10a). Climb left of the overhang making some interesting stemming moves. A few more feet brings you to a small tree and a crack. Sling the tree and plug a #1 or 2 BD and belay your partner up. You may be able to set up a Top-rope. I recommend extending your runners as far past the tuft at the top as possible to keep from bring dirt down on your head. The more it gets climbed the better and cleaner it will get. Walk off the top in either direction.

Location 

Park at the West Pullout. The route can be found on the Land Shark Buttress. The tallest Buttress in the Lost World area. Follow the trail from the Utility Pole buttress following along the base of a series of cliffs(note all the quality routes as you pass by). The start of the route is located just right of Land Shark(11c) and left of a menacing looking off-width. Walk off the top in either direction. Bring your pruning sheers and help keep the trails clear for future climbers. Some of my favorite climbs are at West Pullout.

Protection 

Standard BD rack to 3"
Extra #1 and 2 might be helpful.
A set of chalks are very useful.
8 shoulder length runners.
Cordelette or extra runners for the belay.


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