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Shark Bait 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
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Season: Spring/Fall
Page Views: 427
Submitted By: Shane M. on Oct 29, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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The roof is deceptively long!

Description 

Das Gnar -straight up!

Sweetest roof in SE Wyoming. On par with Fiddler on the Roof (Fremont Canyon), Moonsault, Friday the 13th, and other classic roofcracks in Vedauwoo.

A dihedral with 1 bolt leads to a crimp traverse with one bolt. Then wild jamming into the hands roof. It narrows down to thin hands for the lip. Narrows to fingers and tips locks for the finish. Good luck!

Bolted Anchors with chains. Brand New.

Location 

The most southerly route on the West face of Dome Rock. On the buttress with the large white streak.

Protection 

Few finger pieces for dihedral and beginning and end of roof. Hands-thin hands for roof.

BTW, there is a 'fixed' stopper in the vertical section of the crack and a bail biner on the second bolt. These pieces are for lowering and should not be removed. (otherwise your rope might be eaten)

Also, there was a fixed piece in the horizontal section that has recently come out (i found it at the base). A small TCU can suffice in its stead.


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