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Shark Bait 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Bob Archbold 2001
Page Views: 2,268
Submitted By: Zac Hester on Jun 23, 2002

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Compilation of my second attempt on Shark Bait, co...

Check NPS for Closures


Shark Bait is a relatively recent addition (within the last year or two). The route is the bolt line just left of Shark's Breath (both routes share the same last bolt). Climb the fins and jugs on the bottom half to the light-colored headwall. Pull the two crux moves on the smooth face to the top of the arete and the anchors will be on your left.

This is a great climb for sport climbers leading at 5.7 who are ready to take it up a notch. The two crux moves are protected well and a lead fall would be nice and clean.


If anything, this route is over protected. There are 13 bolts and a set of chain anchors at the top for belaying/rappelling. The bottom half of the climb is simple enough to skip all the bolts until you hit the headwall (which helps with the rope drag towards the top).

Photos of Shark Bait Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Compilation of me working the first 3/4 of Shark B...
Compilation of me working the first 3/4 of Shark B...
Rock Climbing Photo: Brenda at the crux of Shark Bait
Brenda at the crux of Shark Bait
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul Huebner heading up to 5th bolt on Shark Bait.
Paul Huebner heading up to 5th bolt on Shark Bait.
Rock Climbing Photo: Shark Bait
BETA PHOTO: Shark Bait

Comments on Shark Bait Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Jan 25, 2004

Does anyone know what is the bolted route just to the left (West?) of Shark Bait? (They share anchors)

By Andy Busse
From: Rapid City, SD
Feb 4, 2004

AC, I beleive that is an Archbold route.
By Anonymous Coward
Feb 8, 2004

The route to the left of "Shark Bait" is "Shark Attack" 11a
By Anonymous Coward
Feb 8, 2004

It's more like 10c
By Zac Hester
Aug 11, 2004

To DakotaToni:

Sorry to disagree but...

Captain Hook is a great climb, but this is not the one I have described here. I've done Captain Hook--it's up the gully to the left of Shark's Fin and summits a different formation entirely. This is on the same formation as Shark's Breath (5.7) and Shark Attack (5.hard). It's newer than the Mike Lewis guide book (in which Captain Hook appears).
By Tara Reddinger-Adams
Jul 12, 2007

There is a route on the far left side of Shark's Fin, not Bait or Breath. Anyone know what it is? The first bolt is just off the ground, it is very well bolted and looks maybe 5.6 for the first 6 bolts.
By Paul Huebner
From: Portage, WI
Jul 16, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

When you study the nicely bolted route just left of Shark Bait, while rapping down from the anchors for Shark's Breath and Shark Bait it looks like the crux section is getting up into and up through the slightly overhung and gullied yellow rock band (solid 5.8 or 5.9?). Someone said that it's listed in a new book I don't have.

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