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Shark Accrack 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a [details]
FA: ? undocumented ? (1/2013 -T Bubb/M Spieker)
New Route: Yes
Season: Closed Feb-Aug
Page Views: 410
Submitted By: Tony B on Jan 27, 2013

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  • Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
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  • Description 

    A few meters right of Water Grove, there is a second set of crack systems, another 10-15 meters north. There cross in a narrow "X." The one starting to the right and rising up and left is Shark Accrack.

    Start up on a few slabby moves to reach a 5" crack for a few body lengths (perfect knee locks, crux) which quickly becomes a hand-crack. Cross a second crack system in the middle of the "X" just above a tree, and continue toward the top. There is a small overlap with a small poison ivy plant which is easily avoided at 2/3 of the height up to the top. Finish by climbing up the ridge to the South.


    This climb is an obvious handcrack after the first 5 meters of offwidth and runs up and left from the base crossing a second wide crack system like an X. It is perhaps 30 meters down from the South end of Jaws, and 15m right of Water Groove.


    Bring as much perfect-hands to wide-hands gear as you would want to place and a single wide piece (5") to protect the bottom if you think it necessary.

    If I wanted to teach people to place hand-sized cams in a crack (2-3.5"), this would be where I would do it.

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