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Shanty Cliff
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Shantytown T 
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Shantytown 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Season: May - Oct
Page Views: 560
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Jan 7, 2013  with updates from Kevin Heckeler

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Lukasz Czyz styling through the overhang at the lo...

Description 

Climb up the face and outside corner to the large overhang. Climb up the left edge of this a few feet and make long reaches up and right to get past the obstacle and onto the face above the OH.
Climb up the face to a left-leaning, left-facing corner, follow this to a notch meeting a right-rising crack system and take that crack up to a final short traverse to the anchors. The final moves are spicy.

Location 

This route begins on the face right of Gunky Route, joins that route to pass the large overhang, then climbs directly up the face to a right-leaning crack system before traversing sharp right to bolt anchors.
Look for a pile of large, fresh-looking boulders lying at the base of the cliff in front of a left-facing corner bordering a small & shallow rock amphitheater.

Protection 

Mix of bolts and trad gear, predominantly the former but a few spots are dangerously runout without a trad rack.


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By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Jul 6, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The top, and IMO most important bolt, is a spinner (was very loose when I tried unsuccessfully to tighten it).
By J. Nickel
Jul 30, 2016

The nuts on the bolts were all tight today.
By MasterBeta
Jun 12, 2017

Whats the climb directly to the right of this? I climbed up the slab and broke the roof where those other bolts are (to the right of shantytown), and also climbed up a few feet right of that with gear in the wet crack..
By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Jun 13, 2017

MasterBeta: That's a variation to Hooverville. Things are tightly packed in there.

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