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Shanty Cliff
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Shantyclear 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: 1999?
Season: Apr - Oct
Page Views: 86
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on May 18, 2015

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Description 

Better, and more devious, than it looks. Climb up the right-rising crack/notch, make an awkward move into a tiny alcove, then - rather than climbing through the awkward, greasy crack - make committing but easy moves up and right, onto the steep bulge forming the right side of the alcove. There's a right-rising small overhang serrated by several thin cracks, use these for gear, then make an interesting move back left to regain the wide, left-rising crack system (thus bypassing the nasty section of crack). Weave up crack systems to exit at a large birch tree.

Location 

Downhill (right) of the Little Gem Diner Wall, near the base of a dirt scree cone. Time Trials begins to the left, at an obvious, ground-level, left-rising crack. Shantyclear begins in the chunky, right-leaning notch just left of a dirty class 3 gully.
Descend via 3rd class ramp downhill (climber's right).

Protection 

Standard Adk. Trad Rack.


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