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Shanty Cliff
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Shanty Girl 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
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Page Views: 87
Submitted By: J. Serpico on Nov 2, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Route photo of Pug Love and Shanty Girl Wall.

Description 

Climb through the bouldery overhang using the left leaning crack. Follow the crack left to the center, then follow next crack (right leaning) right or go straight up to the right leaning crack after pulling the bulge (harder). Finally, follow the next left leaning crack to the cliff top. Top out is a bit tricky after the easy middle section.

Location 

At the opposite end up the face (right side) from Pug Love at the left leaning crack that starts above a bulge/overhang.

Protection 

Small cams, tricams and a set of nuts. Nothing bigger than a brown tricam or green (0.75) Camalot. There are chains on the left and cold shuts on the right. DO NOT TOP ROPE THROUGH THE FIXED HARDWARE. USE YOUR OWN WEBBING AND CARABINERS.


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By J. Serpico
From: Saratoga County, NY
Nov 2, 2014

Fun route, the start is definitely bouldery and more strenous than the rest of the route. Stick with it and you'll have plenty of chance to recover once you get your feet onto the slab. I think this route is about 5.6, and Pug Love was much easier. Protection is the same for both. Abundant but small.
By J. Nickel
Nov 3, 2014

Regarding top roping through the fixed gear: I realize that this is a polarizing topic, but from a safety standpoint I wouldn't recommend attaching carabiners to the drop-in style cold shuts found on many of the routes at Shanty Cliff. I suppose it might work to girth hitch or clove hitch a sling to the cold shut, but a carabiner runs the risk of twisting and coming unclipped. I would suggest using the cold shuts directly in this case. On a side note, if any of the fixed gear at Shanty is looking worn, let me know and I'll see about getting it replaced.
By J. Serpico
From: Saratoga County, NY
Nov 4, 2014

I'll definitely let you know about the anchor conditions. Thus far, I haven't seen anything that looked unsafe in the 5 times I've been there this year. Definitely one of my favorite places to climb. As a side note, my partner set up what I thought was an interesting (and safe) setup on the cold shuts for top roping. He used a cordelette directly through the shuts tied off with an 8 at a masterpoint. This eliminated the two biners I usually attach to the setup using the same masterpoint setup.

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