REI Community
Shanty Cliff

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
(tbd, currently) Orange Gladiators T 
Bidonville T 
Breadline S 
Climber's Yodel S 
Corktown T 
Flying Friends T,TR 
Grandson of Circuitous Shit T 
Gripe of Wrath S 
Gunky Route T 
Life and Debt T,TR 
Little Gem Diner T,TR 
Mean Low Blues T 
Pug Love T 
Railroad Dickie S 
River View TR 
Rocinha T,TR 
Shanty Girl T 
Shantyclear T,TR 
Shantytown T 
Sleep Walk T 
Son of Circuitous Shit T 
Soup Kitchen S 
Soweto T 
Swampoodle S 
Time Trials T 
Vernal Imperatives T,TR 

Shanty Cliff Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 43.53605, -74.15104 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 7,808
Administrators: Jim Lawyer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Kevin Heckeler on Aug 30, 2010
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Jamie McNeill on Rocinha (5.10c). Photo by Jay Ha...


Secluded. Shaded bottom half for most routes until early afternoon. Don't be surprised to see other climbers and hikers on the weekends. Overall it's a quiet place to climb. Very 'back-to-nature'.

Getting There 

Park at the Cod Pond trailhead parking area along Route 8 (8.3 miles north of the Route 30 intersection, or 14.7 miles south of the Route 28 intersection in Wevertown). Head north 150 yards along Route 8 (over a small bridge). Where the guard rail ends there's a dirt road heading left and down towards the river with a camp site at the end. Cross the river (1-2 feet high during summer) and follow the obvious herd path, which meanders left, then right again, in order to get around a wet area.

Path reaches the slabs in 10 minutes (on left). Continuing right another 5 minutes to reach the Sports Arena (on right, some bolted routes). Continuing up the dike along the cliff's base to the remainder of the wall:

  • Shanty Girl chimney with 3 moderate routes
  • Shantytown and Gunky Route area with many roofs and orange colored rock
  • Third class ramp
  • Two 100 foot walls nearly facing each other (on right is Little Gem Diner, left is Hard Times)
  • Main Face (Left End) low roofs (also called The Raven's Nest)
  • Long, low roof 6 feet high with a short slab section just above

Past this last wall the trail continues up and then right. You can walk off nearly all the climbs here. Which exit/ramp you choose will depend on where you are on the cliff. At the top of the dike walkoff climber's left. Middle and lower sections use the third class ramp right of Little Gem Diner area. Can also rappel most routes.

Quality Climbing! 

Shanty offers top roping, trad, and sport climbing from easy 5.2 up to 5.11 . Rock is good quality and routes are generally easy to follow. Routes are mostly trad, a few mixed (trad and bolts), and some sport. Bolting is done only where no protection is available in tradiitonal Adirondack ethic.

Although most of the routes are cleaned, spring runoff can bring dirt down into the climb, so it's wise to bring a small brush and maybe carry it with you (especially if leading). This is probably a good idea for any backcountry crag.

Climbing Season

Weather station 8.4 miles from here

26 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',14],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Shanty Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Shanty Cliff:
Flying Friends   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 110'   
Soweto   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Swampoodle   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Shantytown   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Soup Kitchen   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Rocinha   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Shanty Cliff

Featured Route For Shanty Cliff
Rock Climbing Photo: Pug Love: May 2012

Pug Love 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  New York : Adirondacks : ... : Shanty Cliff
5.6 G - Start to the right of the tree on the left side of the wall. Follow right leaning crack for a move, then straight up....[more]   Browse More Classics in New York

Photos of Shanty Cliff Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Base of Soweto (left) and little gem diner (right)...
BETA PHOTO: Base of Soweto (left) and little gem diner (right)...
Rock Climbing Photo: Fording the E. Branch of the Sacandaga on the way ...
BETA PHOTO: Fording the E. Branch of the Sacandaga on the way ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bolted 5.10a
Bolted 5.10a
Rock Climbing Photo: 5.8 hand crack
5.8 hand crack
Rock Climbing Photo: Spring river crossing.
Spring river crossing.
Rock Climbing Photo: climbing Hooverville
climbing Hooverville

Comments on Shanty Cliff Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Mar 22, 2012
The base of the main climbing walls in the middle (two 100 foot walls that nearly face each other) is heavily eroded. I find heading to the left wall, then traversing up and right to access the right hand wall is the best approach. In the future some work will be done to shore up the base of those walls to halt the erosion taking place.
By Bill Sacks
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 1, 2012
Well developed area. Flat areas to belay from, nice pathways, and plenty of bolted anchors.
By Gunkiemike
Oct 29, 2012
Has anyone climbed the fingers-to-hands jamcrack through the big overhang that is basically a direct start to Circuitous Shit?
By tohearn1 OHearn
Sep 8, 2015
Visited 9/6/15 and 9/7/15. Started up Hard Times and much to my disappointment the second to last (and possibly last as well) bolt hanger before the anchors was missing. The bolt stud was still in the rock, but no hanger.
By J. Nickel
Jul 30, 2016
I put a new hanger and nut on the last bolt of Hard Times today. The rest of them looked OK.

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