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White Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Almost Heaven S 
Damn the Lieback, Full Stem Ahead! T 
Dining at the Altar S 
Hidden Pleasures T 
I Smell Arete S 
J-Tree Route T 
Moon Child Posse S 
New Clear Potato Meltdown S 
Pettifogger S 
Searching for Sanctuary T 
Shang S 
Shining, The T 
Thunderstruck S 
White Lightning  S 


YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Brian McCray 1997
Page Views: 621
Submitted By: BrianWS on Aug 13, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>


5.11 face climbing over some interesting features leads to a hollow flake (fragile rock!) below a small roof. Struggle through a difficult/awkward sequence to gain a decent rail and easier climbing to the anchors.
Rated 5.12c in the Williams guide, though a fair bit more difficult than the similarly graded Pettifogger.


The middle route on the White Wall, in between Dining at the Altar and Pettifogger. The start has a distinct crescent-shaped rail leading to the high first bolt.
Scramble up to the ledge and traverse left from the start of Pettifogger or climb direct up the seam and dirty face.


6 bolts and bolted anchor. Stick clip for the first bolt.

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By Chris Whisenhunt
From: Fayetteville, WV
May 5, 2016

I personally thought this route was easier than the other two on the wall. Easy 5.11 climbing to a short crux pulling over the roof.
By BrianWS
May 5, 2016

To each their own! I have notoriously poor open hand strength, so the crux felt much harder to me. I've heard of people calling this a 12b even. Regardless, it's probably the lesser of the three routes on this wall in terms of quality.
By Chris Whisenhunt
From: Fayetteville, WV
May 6, 2016

As I have notoriously weak closed hand does that even work? lol
By Drew Hayes
From: Charlotte, NC
Jul 11, 2016

I think the crux of this route is significantly harder than the other two routes. It's short-lived, but it's strenuous, scrunchy, tensiony, and wrecks my shoulders (unless the beta I came up with is totally fucked, which is very likely).

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