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White Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Almost Heaven S 
Damn the Lieback, Full Stem Ahead! T 
Dining at the Altar S 
Hidden Pleasures T 
I Smell Arete S 
J-Tree Route T 
Moon Child Posse S 
New Clear Potato Meltdown S 
Pettifogger S 
Searching for Sanctuary T 
Shang S 
Shining, The T 
Thunderstruck S 
White Lightning  S 

Shang 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Brian McCray 1997
Page Views: 621
Submitted By: BrianWS on Aug 13, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

5.11 face climbing over some interesting features leads to a hollow flake (fragile rock!) below a small roof. Struggle through a difficult/awkward sequence to gain a decent rail and easier climbing to the anchors.
Rated 5.12c in the Williams guide, though a fair bit more difficult than the similarly graded Pettifogger.

Location 

The middle route on the White Wall, in between Dining at the Altar and Pettifogger. The start has a distinct crescent-shaped rail leading to the high first bolt.
Scramble up to the ledge and traverse left from the start of Pettifogger or climb direct up the seam and dirty face.

Protection 

6 bolts and bolted anchor. Stick clip for the first bolt.


Comments on Shang Add Comment
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By Chris Whisenhunt
Administrator
From: Fayetteville, WV
May 5, 2016

I personally thought this route was easier than the other two on the wall. Easy 5.11 climbing to a short crux pulling over the roof.
By BrianWS
May 5, 2016

To each their own! I have notoriously poor open hand strength, so the crux felt much harder to me. I've heard of people calling this a 12b even. Regardless, it's probably the lesser of the three routes on this wall in terms of quality.
By Chris Whisenhunt
Administrator
From: Fayetteville, WV
May 6, 2016

As I have notoriously weak closed hand strength...how does that even work? lol
By Drew Hayes
From: Charlotte, NC
Jul 11, 2016

I think the crux of this route is significantly harder than the other two routes. It's short-lived, but it's strenuous, scrunchy, tensiony, and wrecks my shoulders (unless the beta I came up with is totally fucked, which is very likely).

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