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YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R [details]
FA: Rich Thompson, Tim Kelly 1977
Page Views: 1,764
Submitted By: Orphaned on Jul 1, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Clay on his onsight of this fine climb.


The route boasts an inspirational runout after the second bolt (solid 5.9) atypical for the first ascentionist who normally had more conservative protection ideas. The leader died while climbing out an easier route that same day. p1 is 140' to the "toilet bowl" anchor (clean gear), p 2 about 50'


On the large lower Neptune slab this is the rightmost line of bolts. A different line branches off at the start to the left, but Shanashee heads right up to a good stance and bolt then to a short right facing flake for a fixed wire and other gear. Approach is best via the Neptune/Aegir gully off the midway ledge system.


3 bolts, brass nuts and stoppers to 2 1/2" piece

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By John Peterson
Jul 2, 2008

Without opening a debate on PG-13 vs R, I'd definitely go into the R catagory here. You're looking at falls of 40' or more in spots. I remember that a lot of the hard moves were just before the clips. And it's not nice smooth friction like on Rap Rock where you just slide if you blow it.
By jbak
Jul 2, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R

Definitely an "R" back when I did it. I guess the bolts have been upgraded from rusty 1/4 spinners but still....

When Paul "no fear" Cornia says "nice lead", I figure the route must be at least an R.

Bob Kerry told me the 1/4 inch buttonheads broke under nearly static body weight when they replaced them.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jul 2, 2008

Still gets an R in my book.
By Clay Mansfield
Jun 5, 2014

3 star climbing, 4 star experience, a pitch worth saddling up for.

Paddling out above that last bolt is a history lesson, and a tribute to one of the Reef's early developers.
By TJ Aguilera
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 20, 2016

This climb makes Chiboni seem like the bunny hill. A gem for Tucson trad routes.

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