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St Patrick's Buttress
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Shamrock 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: T D Thompson, R D Moulton, 17th March 1972
Page Views: 17
Submitted By: Nick Russell on Sep 25, 2013

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Description 

A classic route on perfect rock, taking the central corner line of the buttress. This is the original route of the cliff, which takes its name from the first ascent of this route on St. Patrick's Day.

The start is cut off from the boulder beach above mid-tide, but could possibly be accessed by abseil if you're very accurate!

P1. Climb the corner on good jams, with faceholds where they're most needed, to a big sloping ledge. The bottom of this pitch is a bit awkward and probably the crux of the route. Flake belay to the left on the ledge.

P2. Don't continue up the same corner! Instead, from the belay step left and follow an easy jagged crack up to another big ledge (possible belay). Another, steeper corner looms above. Climb this corner, surprisingly easily, past an awkward sloping ledge to the top. Belay here then scramble out over easy ground.

Location 

The big central corner of St. Patrick's Buttress.

Protection 

Singles of cams and nuts should suffice. You could place more cams in the corner if you have them.


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By Nick Russell
Administrator
From: Bristol, UK
Sep 30, 2013

VS 4c in British grades.

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