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Venus Wall
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Constipation Prize S 
Dirtigo S 
Little Mermaid S 
Mercury S 
Mercury on a Halfshell S 
Mountaineer's Crack T 
Mowgli Grape S 
Neptune S 
Preppy's Crack S 
Screamin' T 
Secret Agent S 
Shame on a Chippa S 
Venus Envy S 
Venus on a Halfshell S 
Wimpy -Gilman Ridge, The S 

Shame on a Chippa 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Justin Hayes/Tim Kemple
Page Views: 1,545
Submitted By: Jeremiah Johnson on Mar 5, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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A harder version of Venus. Getting established over the small roof at the beginning of the route is probably the crux, but it continues in a very sustained manner, with another crux in the middle and a redpoint crux at the top. The holds are exceedingly sharp, particularly at the first crux, and the clips are strenuous the whole way, though also particularly at the beginning - a much harder route to lead than to toprope.


The route to the right of Venus.


Bolts (7?)

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By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Jul 25, 2009

This is too hard for me but I have always wondered, does the name mean this route was chipped at some point?
By M Sprague
From: New England
Jul 25, 2009

I think Tim thought it was, but I am not sure it really was. Sometimes people think things are chipped when they are not and visa versa. When cleaning for a new route it is also sometimes a grey area with chossy rock. I have only been on the route one time, so I'm not sure what specific hold/s he found questionable. It is kind of a sharp tweakfest if I remember right
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Jul 26, 2009

Thanks Mark it was just something I have always wondered about
By stow
Jun 17, 2012

FYI - The crimp some people match above the 3rd (i think) draw exploded yesterday mid-match by strong Quebecois Alex. He said it is still doable but harder and more body tension-y as you can use it but can't really match anymore. I've got the pieces if anyone wants them for the Rumney hold museum or forensic reconstruction or a terrible paperweight or anything. Repair might be possible but would be very hard I would think b/c of the many pieces.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 17, 2012

another hold bites the dust... dang... seems like rumney is falling apart...
By Matt McCormick
May 29, 2014

I've switched out a couple of the fixed draws on Chippah in past couple of weeks. I have the draws and will put them back up after I send. I they're yours shoot me a message here and I can get them back to you. I'm not sure who's draws they are.
By ward smith
Jun 27, 2016

Just to be clear, I cleaned and bolted this route and it is anything but chipped. In fact, you probably will wish that it was, lol. The name refers to my cleaning and bolting Mercury, where I used a screwdriver (hand pressure only) in order to clean out a sandy pocket at the horizontal break. Tim thought it was chipped, and maybe for a purist it was.
By Will McFarland
From: Lebanon, NH
Sep 9, 2017
rating: 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a

Just did this one. 13c to the 4th bolt jug, but you get almost everything back so the top crux doesn't add a letter grade. Still, it's hard in the grade.

Not sure why someone would think it's chipped considering how sharp the holds are in the middle.

Breakdown of the route: V8 to the 2nd bolt involving a jump over the left side of the roof to a good edge and jug ear, and a really hard traverse right (technical crux) to what looks like a jug, but is actually 1 pad sloping spock hold. Then a hard 12d-ish section to the 4th both jug. I found the 12d-ish section to be the RP crux as there are some super bad holds (this is the only painful section of the climb) with log reaches between them, and you are a bit pumped at this point. 12+ after the jug, but you are rested and it is a non-issue if you know the moves up there, maybe just a mental crux. It is possible to get a decent rest at the last bolt. Neptune is way more pumpy!

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