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Shalohsh 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Chris Beh, Erik Fedor, Anders Fridberg
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,888
Submitted By: Chris Beh on May 31, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (43)
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John goin' big.

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  • Description 

    Shalohsh (means the number 3 in Hebrew) is the next route left of Family Man.

    Climb a slab, 5.9, past 2 bolts to an overhang. A few fun 5.11 moves past 3 bolts lead to a small ledge. Step right to a one inch crack, place a piece or two before the next bolt, 5.7.

    The upper section is the crux and the hardest moves are at the very top. Jug up right on the flake to its top. The climbing kicks in for the last 3 bolts. The holds are mostly big slopers, which makes the climb nicely not crimpy - for The Slab.

    This route isn't sustained, but it's got a variety of fun moves on good rock. The crux of this climb might be harder for me than the cruxes of the other 12a/b routes on this wall, but it's short - I'll call it 12a until a consensus grade settles out. The business requires a lot of body tension with bad feet, while matching hands on, clipping from, and then moving off, a big, slopey sidepull.

    Protection 

    9 bolts plus a piece of 1 inch gear or two for the middle and a 2 bolt anchor.


    Photos of Shalohsh Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo:
    Rock Climbing Photo:
    Rock Climbing Photo: John about to punch it to the chains.
    John about to punch it to the chains.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up the route.
    BETA PHOTO: Looking up the route.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Shalohsh 12a, the crux is at the top.
    BETA PHOTO: Shalohsh 12a, the crux is at the top.

    Comments on Shalohsh Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Chris Beh
    Jun 1, 2009

    Kristin Bjornsen, thanks for all the belaying on my project. This route wouldn't be ready, yet, for other climbers, without your help. Erik Fedor got it first when we had a top rope on it last year. Pat Adams climbed it on tr to vet my bolt locations. He called it 12a (sandbag alert!) Thanks for the feedback, Pat.

    I put the bolts in 5/30/09 and redpointed it, too.
    By Brett Merlin
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 25, 2010

    Bring a #0.4 Camalot, also pulled off some blocks down low. Be careful as this route is still "breaking in".
    By climberboy228 Romano
    May 29, 2017

    This route is super cool and fun...but I'm a little confused, too. I love the variety of climbing this route offers: thin face, steep overhang, crimps, slopers, crack, laybacks, etc. It's a long route on beautifully colored rock in the shade. It's also well-protected with the small exception of the crack area which is easily protected with a #2 cam and then maybe a #0.5 cam higher.

    Now to my confusion...the first crux is going over the steep section around bolt 4...maybe 5.11. Then after the good rest and the crack, it becomes pretty sustained to the chains for about 25 feet. Moving through the sidepulls and mini-dihedrals with bad feet is challenging, maybe 5.11+. By the time you pull through the last traverse to the left, undercling, and then work up the bad slopey rail, you are pretty pumped when you have to make the hardest move on the whole route...a big move up left off the slopey rail with terrible feet to a high left flake...about four feet to the left of the chains. At that point, it definitely feels harder than 5.12a to me. The question I have is whether you need to make the move to that jug or do people just move from the black slopey rail and grab the chains? Or do they make that crazy move up left to the juggy flake? If so, is it still 5.12a?
    By Chris Beh
    May 30, 2017

    climberboy228 Romano, hard left at the last bolt is the easier beta and calling it 12b instead of 12a is not an unreasonable. Climbing straight to the chains is much harder. I never got that and have not heard from anyone that they did the straight up way. It would be surprising if no one has actually done the harder variation considering the talent that frequents the crag. I would be interested in hearing about it from whoever might have sent the direct.

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