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Shakie Oakie 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jerry Barnett
Page Views: 148
Submitted By: Creed A on Feb 15, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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At the top of Shakie Oakie

Description 

This is a good 5.10, worthy of a few stars. I don't like it, however, because you have to clip the chains from some desperate slopers.

Location 

Left of the massive tree leaning against Reservation Wall. Right of the obvious Reservation Crack.

Protection 

5 bolts. 2 bolt anchor.


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By K Gustafson
Jun 13, 2015
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

In my experience, this route is height dependent! (I'm 5'6"). Clipping the anchors off slopers is difficult for 10a.
By Creed A
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 13, 2015

I'm 6 ft and I still hate clipping the anchors on this route. I don't think it's worthy of a bomb though.
By Michael A Parker
From: Tulsa, OK
Sep 12, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

We've discovered that the trick is to clip the anchors from the lowest point you can reach them. I am 5' 11" and never have to grab the top slopers to clip. I am able to clip the chains from the lower holds which are much better. It is still a challenging clip, but not nearly as dangerous as moving all the way up to the top of the route.

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