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19 - New Diversions
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Burst of Brilliance T 
Chicken Pie T 
Cock Tart S 
Falcon T 
Jugs T 
New Deviations T 
New Diversions T 
Shake, Rattle, and Drop T 
Strangers In the Night T 
Tail End T 
Wasp T 

Shake, Rattle, and Drop 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Rick Sylvester, Chris Hassig, and Alex Behr - Nov. 1974
Page Views: 554
Submitted By: Osprey Overhang on Jan 21, 2010

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Belay under this roof!

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


This is a hidden gem! There are bushes blocking the view of the top half of the climb from the ground. If the bushes were not there I'm sure this climb would have people on it more often. Can be done in one pitch but two is recommended due to rope drag.
Pitch One: Climb up crack into and through the bushes. Set up a natural anchor below a large roof.
Pitch Two: Climb through the roof with excellent hands and cups (.10b) turning the lip is the crux. Continue up slabby hand crack (#2.5 friend) to the top and a natural anchor.
Walk off to the right.


This climb is to the right of Chicken Pie, and just to the left of a dirty Chimney for Two. Look for an east facing crack that climbs up into some bushes.


Single set to 3". Bring one extra #2-#3.5 friends. Slings.

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By Bryan G
From: Yosemite
Mar 10, 2012

The moves at the lip of the roof are pretty cool. Like with most roof climbs, make sure the rope doesn't drag the cams up into the crack. Pitch 1 starts off as a pleasant handcrack and then quickly turns to vertical bushwhacking. This is sort of one of those novelty climbs where you do 200 feet of mediocre climbing just for that 15 feet of splitter roof crack. It's worth it though.
By Nicholas L.
From: Raleigh, NC
Nov 2, 2015

There were parties toproping all the usual climbs at this area so we decided to get on this one. Felt like I was the first person on this route in years. Needed to do a lot of bushwhacking and gardening just to get to the belay under the roof. Despite this, the hands at the start of the first pitch are pretty clean and fun and the roof is really awesome. Definitely worth it despite the messiness!

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