|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches, 400'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R [details]|
|FA:||Tom Higgins and Chris VanDiver 5/1976|
|Submitted By:||David Delkeskamp on Dec 12, 2011|
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|Comments on Shake-N-Bake||Add Comment|
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By Simon W
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 7, 2014
Excellent climb! A definite step up from Lava Falls, but more in adventure than difficulty. (The crux sections are harder, but not by leaps and bounds.) The posters statement about this climb never being desperate for 5.10 leaders is accurate. Keep an eye out to the left higher up on the second pitch because that's where most of the bolts are. I climbed past a couple and had to reverse a move or two just to clip near my knee.
The bolts on the first pitch are seriously manky. This was the psychological crux for me. Old rivets with rusty hangars. Definitely wouldn't want to load them at this point, let alone take a lead fall. The topo in Young's book depicts these bolts in a straight line but the second bolt is a near horizontal traverse right and the 3rd is more up and to the right. Don't get too low right there.
RE gear: After fiddling with a few nuts at the start I was able to get a decent yellow WC zero cam in to protect the moves to the first bolt. There is a bomber pod for a red C4 cam near the end of the third pitch when the bolts stop.
By Natalie H
From: San Francisco, CA
Dec 23, 2016
|Has anyone done this route recently? I tried getting on it today, only to met with a lot of choss and difficult route finding (accidentally got on Electric Blue because I couldn't locate any of the bolts for Shake-N-Bake). Are the bolts still up? Or were they taken down, given the condition the above commenter noted they were in nearly 3 years ago?|