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Shake And Not Stir 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Jim Patton
Page Views: 188
Submitted By: Fred Gomez on Apr 2, 2012

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Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>


This route justifies the long hike to the third buttress. It climbs a sweeping parabolic wall with no discontinuities. The movement is athletic and thuggish.

Begin by climbing through two bolts of slopey jugs, being sure to use your heels effectively to make the steep angle more manageable. The third bolt is a bit tricky to clip, so it would be to your advantage to pre-hang the draw with a really long stick. The crux is around the third bolt and can be done a couple different ways. Post crux the angle gets more vertical and the climbing eases. One last surprising sequence is encountered a bolt below the chains. Use some strange two finger pockets and a couple small edges before manteling out the final ledge.

The rock on this one is a bit suspect in spots, but the movement makes up for what it lacks in rock quality.


Far right side of the third Buttress. Last route in the cave.


8 bolts + anchor

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