REI Community
search
Advanced
Summit Block Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dr. Rubo's Wild Ride T 
Quiet Storm, The T 
Shagging the Doctor T 
Unknown 5.8 (a.k.a. Rap Route 5.8) T 
Unsorted Routes:

Shagging the Doctor 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 350', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bloom/Cosentino
Season: Spring-Fall
Page Views: 908
Submitted By: Justin Gallen on Feb 7, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Bill on first Pitch

Description 

This is an OK route with a spectacular summit.
4 pitches
Double rope rapel

P1- Located 2 crack systems to the right of Dr. Rubo's, climb up to a small belay ledge with bolt. Crux is just below the ledge. 5.10 but awkward.

P2- Climb up adn left under roof. Fixed black #4.5 in crack around the roof. Bolt at belay.

P3- Climb up to the base of the block. Belay at tree.

P4- This is the last pitch of Dr. Rubo's. Scramble to the north side of the block, and step up. Bolts at top.


Descent- double 60m rapel off bolts to saddle.

Protection 

Standard rack
3...1"-3"
2...3"-4"
Fixed cam on Pitch 2
Rap chains at top.

Location 

Park at the end of Soldier's Pass road, and hike to Summit Block Rock, West of Coffee Pot Rock


Photos of Shagging the Doctor Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2
Pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: Following P1
Following P1

Comments on Shagging the Doctor Add Comment
Show which comments
By James Fisher
From: Sedona, AZ
May 1, 2009

The gear is no longer fixed on p2
By bildeen
From: Sedona, AZ
Dec 11, 2016

Awesome route by Sedona standards! Sustained 1st pitch at 5.10 thin hands. A little crumbly at the start until you reach the crack and then high quality. Could feel harder than straight 5.10 if you're not used to full on (awkward) crack climbing. 3 star 1st pitch for me.

2nd pitch is nearly as good, just totally different. From thin hands on p.1 to big hands/fist on p.2. Very airy step around end of roof! The next part would be full on O/W if not for the continual feet that appear whenever needed. 9+/10-

1 each TCUs, doubles 1" to 4" (.5 Camalot to #4 Camalot), small selection of nuts
Single bolt belays on p. 1 & 2 easily backed up with gear.

One rope, 2 raps now (1st one 98 ft). Also, approach listed is wrong. Do not park at Soldiers Pass! Sugarloaf trailhead is the place now.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · People · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About
Terms · Privacy © 2017 Adventure Projects, Inc.