Shaggin Wagon
5.12a/b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.4 from 121 votes
Type: | Sport |
FA: | Jerry Handren |
Page Views: | 10,942 total · 55/month |
Shared By: | Jay Knower on Dec 8, 2007 · Updates |
Admins: | Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Access Issue: Peregrine Falcons in Maine
Details
2022 Update: Nesting peregrine falcons have been confirmed on the right (southeast) side of Shagg Crag.
To help ensure a successful breeding season climbers are being asked not to climb on the Rhino Boulder, routes to the right of "Block Buster“, or proceed on foot beyond this point. Please contact Dr. Erynn Call, MDIFW State Raptor Specialist with any questions: erynn.call@maine.gov.
To learn more about peregrines in Maine, check out this link: maine.gov/ifw/fish-wildlife…
To help ensure a successful breeding season climbers are being asked not to climb on the Rhino Boulder, routes to the right of "Block Buster“, or proceed on foot beyond this point. Please contact Dr. Erynn Call, MDIFW State Raptor Specialist with any questions: erynn.call@maine.gov.
To learn more about peregrines in Maine, check out this link: maine.gov/ifw/fish-wildlife…
Description
If you came to the crag looking to tick 5.12, Shaggin Wagon is the route for you. This is not to say that the route is easy for the grade--far from it. Shaggin Wagon is all of 12a; however, success depends more on being tall than being strong.
The crux is at the bottom after which it's all about hanging on. If you are tall, the first move shouldn't be much of a problem. Expect a deadpoint to a pretty good hold. If you are short...well, I'm tall, so your struggles are alien to me.
The difficulties continue up a cool undercling/layback feature. Good foot work is key. Pumpy edges follow to the anchors. I've heard people call this route 12c, though they were all pretty short.
The crux is at the bottom after which it's all about hanging on. If you are tall, the first move shouldn't be much of a problem. Expect a deadpoint to a pretty good hold. If you are short...well, I'm tall, so your struggles are alien to me.
The difficulties continue up a cool undercling/layback feature. Good foot work is key. Pumpy edges follow to the anchors. I've heard people call this route 12c, though they were all pretty short.
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