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Shaggin Wagon 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jerry Handren
Page Views: 6,605
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Dec 8, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (59)
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Seth sticking the first big move.


If you came to the crag looking to tick 5.12, Shaggin Wagon is the route for you. This is not to say that the route is easy for the grade--far from it. Shaggin Wagon is all of 12a; however, success depends more on being tall than being strong.

The crux is at the bottom after which it's all about hanging on. If you are tall, the first move shouldn't be much of a problem. Expect a deadpoint to a pretty good hold. If you are short...well, I'm tall, so your struggles are alien to me.

The difficulties continue up a cool undercling/layback feature. Good foot work is key. Pumpy edges follow to the anchors. I've heard people call this route 12c, though they were all pretty short.


6 bolts

Photos of Shaggin Wagon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Kayte on Shaggin Wagon
Kayte on Shaggin Wagon
Rock Climbing Photo: Seth clipping the last bolt.
Seth clipping the last bolt.
Rock Climbing Photo: Taken by Kayte (sp?) Oct/Nov 2007
Taken by Kayte (sp?) Oct/Nov 2007
Rock Climbing Photo: Kayte being short on Shaggin Wagon
Kayte being short on Shaggin Wagon

Comments on Shaggin Wagon Add Comment
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By Zach Swanson
From: Newton, MA
4 days ago

As of 9/16/16 the 2nd bolt hanger is missing; this leaves the route in a shitty situation - you either stick clip only the first bolt so that you can lead up, but this means you take a huge risk of decking enroute to the 3rd (now 2nd) permadraw; or you stick clip the permadraw and take a giant swing backward if you screw up the first move throwing to the gaston. Not sure why this was removed.

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