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Shagg Crag

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Agro Shagg S 
Block Buster S 
Cell Block D S 
Continental Divide T 
Cut Split and Delivered S 
Death to the Queen S 
Deja Voodoo S 
Diesel S 
Diesel Bob S 
Fat Bastard S 
Fat Pig S 
Fuzzy Rhino Slippers  S 
Ginseng Route S 
Great Escape, The S 
Grimas De Oro 
It Ain't Pretty Being Easy S 
Kick to the Teeth S 
Late for Dinner S 
Long and Short of It, The S 
Looney Tunes S 
Loopy Noodle Butt Conspiracy S 
Meltdown S 
Nice Tooth S 
Patches the Clown S 
Pushes Little Daisies S 
Raging Bull, The 
Recombinant DNA S 
Rhino Flake T 
Ritual , The S 
Rough Rhino S 
Screw It S 
Shagg It  S 
Shagg Zag S 
Shaggadelic S 
Shaggin Wagon S 
Short Bob S 
Short Shagg S 
Sour Diesel S 
Standard Route T 
Summer Smoke S 
Tightrope S 
Two Shaved Heads S 
Unitard S 
Unknown Name S 
Velvet Elvis S 
What About Bob? S 
What About Bobcat S 
When the fat lady sings S 
Zagg Shagg S 
Unsorted Routes:
Rest Day:
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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Shagg Crag Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 44.4237, -70.5309 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 49,417
Administrators: Ladd, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jay Knower on May 21, 2007
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [2 people like this page.]

Description 

In my experience, granite rarely forms buckets and when it does form buckets, it's rarely steep. Shagg Crag has all three: steep, juggy, granite climbing.

Located about an hour away from North Conway, Shagg sees a fair amount of traffic, though it is still possible to have the crag by yourself on a sunny weekend. The crag gets afternoon sun and there is little to offer shade, so expect a warm climbing experience. This can be a great thing on sunny winter days, or a curse on sunny summer days. Get up early on warm days and climb until the wall comes into the sun.

Besides Waimea at Rumney, Shagg might be the most stacked cliff in all of New England. If you're looking for endurance-esque 5.12's, I can't think of a better crag. The guidebook lists twelve routes rated 5.12 and almost all of them are quality. Shaggin Wagon (12a), Ginseng Route (12c), Meltdown (12c/d), and Shagg It (12d), stand out as unique classics. If you're looking for routes of a more moderate grade, Shagg might offer enough for a day or so, and The Great Escape (10d) should not be missed.


Rock Climbing Photo: Kayte on Shaggin Wagon
Kayte on Shaggin Wagon

Getting There 

From the south (North Conway):

Take Rte. 26 towards West Paris and turn right (east) onto Rte. 219.
After 4.8 miles, turn left (north) onto Tuell Hill Rd. Follow Tuell Hill Rd. until it dead-ends into Redding/Shagg Rds. just after a bridge. Reset your odometer at the bridge and turn left (west) onto Redding/Shagg Rds.
At 3.9 or 4.0 miles there is a pullout on the left. Park here; the trail starts on the other side of the road.

Follow the trail for about 10 minutes until you come to a pond and a trail junction (the left fork goes to the pond, the middle fork contours east around the pond, the right fork heads up a steep ridge/hill. Take the right fork up the hill for 15-20 minutes and keep your eyes peeled for a subtle climber's trail that branches off to the right (east) and drops down around to the Shagg Crag. If you miss this turn, you will continue for 5 minutes to an obvious trail junction (the righthand fork of which leads to the summit of Bald Mountain). This is a worthy detour and it is easy to visit the summit and then retrace your steps back to the climber's trail. Total hiking time is about 30-40 minutes.

Climbing Season



Weather station 7.6 miles from here

49 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',21],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',3],['5.10',5],['5.11',8],['5.12',18],['5.13',9],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',2],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Shagg Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Shagg Crag:
Short Shagg   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport   
The Great Escape   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport   
Fuzzy Rhino Slippers    5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   
Zagg Shagg   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
It Ain't Pretty Being Easy   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport   
Short Bob   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 50'   
Two Shaved Heads   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport   
Shaggin Wagon   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport   
Ginseng Route   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport   
Looney Tunes   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 60'   
Meltdown   5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport   
What About Bobcat   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 70'   
Tightrope   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport   
What About Bob?   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 65'   
Shagg It    5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
The Ritual    5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 15 pitches, 20'   
Fat Pig   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport   
Nice Tooth   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport   
When the fat lady sings   5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a     Sport   
Diesel   5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a     Sport, 50'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Shagg Crag

Featured Route For Shagg Crag
Rock Climbing Photo: Jen Taylor on the "Kobe" move of What Ab...

What About Bob? 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b  ME : Shagg Crag
What About Bob? (WAB) was bolted by Bob Parrot in '96/'97 and climbs the steep white section of rock to the right of Short Shagg, beginning in the thin band of quartzite-mixed rock that shoots straight up from the bouldery start. Cryptic and acrobatic (as described by Chris Cook), this route is hard to on-sight for 5.12 climbers. Tense climbing with a few possible sucker holds (depending on your height beta) lead to good jugs and a traverse to the right. Face climb to a big ledge, breath, and p...[more]   Browse More Classics in ME

Photos of Shagg Crag Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Trail head for Shagg Crag.  This is on the right a...
Trail head for Shagg Crag. This is on the right a...
Rock Climbing Photo: Brett Cary on a classic arete in the Shagg boulder...
Brett Cary on a classic arete in the Shagg boulder...
Rock Climbing Photo: Grady on an unknown boulder problem just below the...
Grady on an unknown boulder problem just below the...
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris Duelin eats pieces of Shagg Crag for breakfa...
Chris Duelin eats pieces of Shagg Crag for breakfa...
Rock Climbing Photo: A look at the steepness
A look at the steepness

Comments on Shagg Crag Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 15, 2016
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Dec 8, 2007
Shagg Pond is one of the best cliffs in the country for 5.12 sport routes. If you are looking for technical routes, powerful routes, weird routes, or endurance routes, Shagg has a 5.12 for you.
By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Dec 12, 2007
Jay--
If you didn't post this area description, sooner or later I was going to have to! Thanks!
By Matty Zane
From: Freedom
Mar 23, 2008
Is their a guide book to this area? I know its listed in the rock climbing New England book, but I wan wondering if their was guidebook specifically for this area
By Ladd
Administrator
Mar 24, 2008
I happen to have a homemade guidebook complete with FAs and some topos. Feel free to contact me via email if you want a copy.
By Bjorn
From: Leadvegas, CO
Jul 19, 2008
For the most part Shagg Crag was developed in its entirety by Erik Mushial and Bob Parrott. I have it from the highest authority that the birth of Shagg took place over the course of one summer fueled by bong smoke and cases of warm beer. It would be safe to assume that any given route here, unless established in some later unrelated effort, should be credited as a collaboration of these two great New England climbers.
By Lanky
From: Tired
Jul 21, 2008
Nate Kimball put up a least a route or two as well. I cannot comment on the presence of beer or bongs.
By chris deulen
From: Merriam, Kansas
Mar 29, 2009
The parking area is at the top of a steep hill, with the trail starting across the road. In the winter and early spring, this road is not plowed and one must park at the base of this hill to avoid the sticky snow and getting stuck on either side (which has happened several times this month already!). Also, the road becomes extremely muddy this time of year, and 4WD is strongly encouraged.
By andyscott
From: Massachusetts
Jun 30, 2010
Did a really cool link up today at the right end of the cliff. It starts on Cell Block D and then after the crux of Cell Block D traverses left into Looney Tunes. I have no idea of the name or grade. Anyone know?
By Dominic Benson
From: Bangkok, Thailand
Jul 30, 2010
can't forget Jim Ewing, "What about Bob" is rad.
By m-earle
From: USA
Aug 25, 2010
Maybe its just me, but after a 3 hour, meandering drive from conway, I'm inclined to believe the the directions here were not quite right. Here are mine. I you follow them, I promise you will not get as lost as I did...

Take rt 26 towards West Paris, turn east onto 219. After 4.8 miles, turn left onto Tuell Hill Rd. After 1.6 miles take a left, continuing on Tuell Hill rd. After .9 miles, Tuell Hill rd. ends. Take a left on Reading. After 3.9/4 miles, there is a pullout on the left. Park here, the trail starts on the other side of the road.

Follow the trail for about 10 minutes until you come to a pond. At this trail junction, take the right path going up a steep hill. follow the path going uphill, and after 15/20 minutes when the trail starts to level off, take a small trail that breaks off right. After a couple minutes, you will be at the base of the crag.
By Mike Veazey
From: Exeter, NH
Apr 23, 2011
Two mystery pitches above Kick to the Teeth. One is a 7 bolt pitch at mid 5.10 the next finishes to the top of the cliff. Anyone know anything about these?
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Jul 22, 2011
Shagg... the real deal yo!
By Jon Doty
Oct 11, 2011
Found a grigri there monday...pm me with the biner color, tape color and tell me whether it is a grigri 1 or 2 and I will return it to rightful owner.
By wrandolph
Apr 6, 2012
I was hoping for a trip to Shagg sometime this spring and had emailed Ladd for a guidebook. I guess he changed emails or isn't around or something, either way, I was wondering if anyone happened to have a copy of that homemade guidebook he had that could email it to me?
By chris deulen
From: Merriam, Kansas
May 29, 2012
You can print out a guide here: mountainproject.com/scripts/Pr...
By Jcomeau
From: North Conway
Mar 11, 2013
Is it dry yet?
By SCherry
From: San Diego, CA
Aug 5, 2014
Hey Jay -

Anyway this page can have all the unsorted routes sorted in. Would be super helpful since there is no guide and the cliff is easily described from L to R or R to L?

Thanks!
By Julek
Aug 7, 2014
I found some gear there 5 days ago. Anyone lose a set of quick draws and some lockers?
By Julek
Aug 7, 2014
I found some gear there 5 days ago. Anyone lose a set of quick draws and some lockers?
By zswan
From: Newton, MA
Aug 14, 2016
I'm assuming that Shagg Zagg and Zag Shagg are actually the same route? They both describe finishing an extra 5 bolts above Great Escape. One of the moderators want to merge the pages if that's the case?
By chris spalding
Sep 4, 2016
Looking to head out to Shagg this week.. Visiting Maine from Washington. Are most of the lines here perma-drawed? Does it get shade at a certain time of day? Do any of the routes stay dry during/after rain? Thanks for any help!
By zswan
From: Newton, MA
Sep 15, 2016
Most of the cliff has permanent protection due to the steepness and difficulty cleaning. Those that don't are clearly marked in the Conway guidebook and here on MP. Decent rain protection as long as it isn't a downpour. Well shaded until 1 or 2 pm. Early afternoon gets pretty toasty and then it'll cool off again around 4:30 or 5pm.


For anyone who finds the parking/trailhead directions mildly confusing, the GPS coords are: 44.426927W, -70.538135N. That'll take you to the exact location of the pullout. Google Maps knows all the back roads there and can direct you just fine. The crag itself is located at 44.432975W, -70.526945N.