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YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,686
Submitted By: Guy H. on Aug 6, 2001

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Getting under way on lower Shag.


This an [twelve] bolt route on the far left side of the crag. At 150 feet, this route is a long, moderate cruiser. There are some flakey and somewhat loose spots on the route. The last 50 feet have some large runouts (25 feet) on easy rock.

Descent: make 2 single rope raps using the anchors on Backpaddle. (Use a 55-60m rope). Or do a double rope rap to the ground.


12 draws.

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By Kurt Johnson
From: Estes Park, CO
Feb 20, 2002

While the top may have an easy runout, other parts of the route are curiously overbolted, with less than 3 feet between 2 of the bolts and several others which aren't much farther apart. This makes for a great beginner lead, though. We scrambled up and left (roped up - it's a little steep, and we weren't sure what kind of terrain we'd encounter) and walked off down the west gully.
By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 14, 2003

Did this route a couple of weeks ago. Actually a decent area with some summer shade for the belayer and some nice views of the higher peaks. A couple of crux moves to keep it interesting but goes well. Worth the one star it is given. We walked off as well after some exposed scrambling to the northwest. For us, however, the walk down the gully was not too straightforward and took a lot more time than anticipated. You may wish to rappel if you are in a hurry.
By Christina kalb
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 7, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Bring slings if you plan to clip every bolt. Bolts zigzag up this route resulting in serious rope drag
By Greg Speer
From: Fort Collins, CO
May 19, 2009

Nice climb. Really had no problems with flakey or loose stuff.
By Rodney Ley
Jun 4, 2011

This is my third year of doing Shag as a nice early season warm up. Looks like most of the flakey/loose stuff is gone now. Wish a doubled 70m touched the ground---it's close but not quite close enough.
Jul 31, 2014

I counted 11 bolts today, but I could be wrong. Generally good route and the runouts indicated in the description are over very easy territory. Nothing that should stop even a new 5.7 leader.

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