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The Speakeasy wall
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Adhesion 
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Shaft! 
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Shaft! 

Hueco: V4-5 Font: 6B+

   
Type:  Boulder, 10'
Original:  Hueco: V4-5 Font: 6B+ [details]
FA: Aaron Parlier
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 11
Submitted By: Aaron Parlier on Nov 8, 2009

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Description 

Sit start in the same hands as "Spanner"(V-1) and trend right up the "Shaft"(the side) of the boulder.
Toss far and right to a small lip at the very bottom (but still the side) of the "shaft".
toss up again to a good hand formed in a water groove that defines the "helmet" part of the prominence.
heel hook or toe on a pocket and then dyno to the "tip".
top out.

Protection 

pads

Location 

This problem has the same start hands as "Spanner"(V-1). the line goes to the right and up the (side)"Shaft" of the boulder
- sophomoric as it may be, you cant tell me there isn't a resemblance- and then tops out only on the "tip".... hands are only on the side, and top out only at the very top....


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