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Sandstonia
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Lord of the Jungle T 
Mike Tyson's Face S 
Mrs. Field's Follies S 
One Repetition Max S 
Pay It Forward S 
Plumber's Crack T 
Pure Power S 
Shady Lady S 
Weisenheimer Brainstorm S 
Witches of Bangor S 
Zeitgeist S 

Shady Lady 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Charles Ganote, Cindy Hintz, Eric Hörst (2003)
Page Views: 2,638
Submitted By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 10, 2008

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Resting after placing the two anchor draws!

Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This climb is the first you encounter in a neat little section of Sandstonia that is separated from the rest of the cliff by large blocks at either end. This little alcove is often quieter then the western side of the cliff and affords nice views of the river. The cave-like hole created by a large block 50 feet right of this climb creates a cool place to hide or eat lunch in the summer.

Start on the broken face just left the dihedral in some cracks (takes gear, but only a new 5.7 leader might feel uncomfortable without it). Climb the broken face, passing a roof on the left and continue up and right on the nice face to a small ledge and the anchors. You can TR the adjacent route (Lieback and Enjoy It, 5.10d) from this anchor with a directional or 2.

A fun easy route on cool rock.

Location 

At a dihedral, just past where the cliff juts out creating a narrow section of the trail (just past the prminent flake and corner of Butterfly Flake and Plumber's Corner).

Protection 

6 bolts + 2-bolt anchor


Photos of Shady Lady Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the anchors on Shady Lady.
Nearing the anchors on Shady Lady.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ellie D up on the lady.
Ellie D up on the lady.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff nearing the crux on Shady Lady (5.7).
BETA PHOTO: Jeff nearing the crux on Shady Lady (5.7).

Comments on Shady Lady Add Comment
Show which comments
By Benandstuff
From: Winston-Salem, NC
Aug 17, 2015

Well-bolted, sustained grade, of decent length. This is a climb every 5.7 leader should do.
By Matt Powers
From: Madison, VA
Aug 26, 2015

I thought this was a way better route than Bobby D's Bunny. Sustained and fun.
By Dalton Lightkeeper
May 26, 2016

Fun crux makes for a cruise up the rest, don't forget to clip once you make the move though. It'd be easy to blow right past it.
By jkw
Sep 1, 2016

Was my first outdoor sport lead. Nice climb with enjoyable but simple crux. First 10 ft or so was seeping water, but was dry the rest of the way. Poor stance for cleaning anchor.