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At the first belay. The finger traverse left that ...
Climb up the chimney for about 30 feet until a roof blocks your way. Face traverse left and gain a wonderful zig-zagging hand and finger crack. Continue up this crack to the top.
Highly recommended variation: Start left of the huge roof on the left. Traverse to the right under the roof, utilizing a tips to off finger crack (awesome). Pass the roof and set up a semi-hanging belay. Continue straight up the great zig-zagging crack to the top.
Descent: Walk right and rap from the bolts for Dovercourt
About 30 feet downhill, left of Dovercourt.
Nuts and cams: small to wide hands. Extra tight hand pieces make for a nice belay on the variation.
By Jeremy Werlin
May 17, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
A bit contrived, but so much fun it is highly recommended. The lower section is interesting, too. Standard rack up to 1 #3 Camalot.