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BETA PHOTO: The climb in summer 2014.
This is another line that is just to the right of Shady Girl
at the Garden Wall. This obvious line called out to be cleaned and climbed. It's partially clean at this point. A brush would be useful. It is probably safer as a TR than a lead.
Start about 6 feet to the right of Shady Girl
. Follow a dihedral. The crux is likely exiting the tight dihedral on marginal gear (PG-13 or R). A decent #2 RP protects the exit from this dihedral. Higher up, you can finish left of a large, questionable block by clipping the last 3 bolts of Shady Girl
or right on moderate face if on TR.
Rappel off the anchors for Shady Girl
Just to clarify, the block sitting up ~3/4'rds the way up is too big to just launch with the road just below. It's fairly easy to avoid climbing right or left.
FWIW, this would be more challenging to lead for a shorter climber.
This ascends a dihedral about 6 feet to the right of Shady Girl
TR or a possible rack of red Alien, #0.75 Camalot, green Alien, #1 BD (marginal) or a knifeblade, #2 RP, #0.5 Camalot, blue Alien, yellow Alien, 3 bolts.
Dave starting into the crux section.
By Jay Eggleston
Jul 15, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
This route has not been cleaned very much. It still has vegetation in the crack. It can be top roped after doing one of the nearby sport routes, but there is no safe and easy way to set up a top rope otherwise.
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jul 15, 2014
These climbs are in the shade and probably little traffic...which allows the vegetation to regrow. We spent a good bit of time cleaning out this crack, leaving a decent pile of dirt and debris at the base.