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Shadows on the Earth 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: mike carville
Page Views: 1,357
Submitted By: mike carville on Apr 3, 2013  with updates from Refuge Jared

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Brad on crux move of Shadows

No overnight camping on PG&E property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

climb face through overhang (crux). This climb has serious risk and shouldn't be "attempted" if you're not a confident 5.11 leader. There is a 10-12 foot run out between the 2nd and 3rd bolt--a fall very likely means decking and there's a great rock to be impaled on below. The risk is hospitalization. Not worth it if you're not confident that you can ace it. "The holds are all there," but they're not juggy 5.10 moves.

There are 2 large ledges as you ascend. Once standing on the first big ledge you have the 2nd bolt just below your foot. A fall getting onto the second ledge would be decent. Once standing on the second ledge there are a few high risk moves before the clip. You cannot slip up here.

Location 

face right of arete. See Emeralds main Page (Photos)

Protection 

Stick clip first bolt. Note there is a 10-12 foot run out between 2nd and 3rd bolt. The roof crux on the other hand is marvelously protected.


Photos of Shadows on the Earth Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Not the best beta
Not the best beta

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By Tibo
Oct 27, 2013

Start left and traverse right to the first bolt, or use a stick clip. Great route!
By grabski
From: N California
Nov 2, 2015
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

As of 11/1/2015, it looks like the hanger on the 5th bolt is missing (the bolt on the prow of the roof). From the ground it appears the bolt is still there and in decent shape.

Anyone know why the hanger was removed? Is the bolt suspect?
By John Robinson
From: Elk Grove, ca
May 3, 2016

On 5/2/16 that hanger was replaced. The stud is in excellent condition. I have no idea why the hanger went missing.
By Refuge Jared
From: South Lake Tahoe, Ca
May 28, 2017

This climb has serious risk and shouldn't be "attempted" if you're not a confident 5.11 leader. There is a 10-12 foot run out between the 2nd and 3rd bolt--a fall very likely means decking and there's a great rock to be impaled on below. The risk is hospitalization. Not worth it if you're not confident that you can ace it. "The holds are all there," but they're not juggy 5.10 moves.

That said, deets: there are 2 large ledges as you ascend. Once standing on the first big ledge you have the 2nd bolt just below your foot. A fall getting onto the second ledge would be decent. Once standing on the second ledge there are a few high risk moves before the clip. You cannot slip up here.

The roof crux on the other hand is marvelously protected. The moves getting there may not be as difficult, but they are not sufficiently protected.

Great climb for sure--every section, every move. But I'm surprised that this section is poorly protected. Maybe the route setter wanted a bold section here, but personally I'd love to see another bolt placed to make the route safer and more accessible. Risk of a scary fall is one thing, but risk of decking from 20 feet is a different deal. If the route setter is into making a change, I'm willing to support generously. Feel free to contact me!
By mike carville
May 28, 2017

yes, been meaning for years to rebolt - so no more stick clip or run out and new anchors. will try to get it done next few weeks. not worth getting hurt. cheers, m
By Ales Kobrle
From: San Jose
Jun 4, 2017
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

High dependent crux. I'm sure it will be harder for short people to pass roof.
By Brad J
Jun 9, 2017
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Mike

If you want we can add a bolt between 2 and 3 when we extend the climb. Seems to me the start is OK with no need for a change, but that's just my opinion.

B
By Joe Coover
From: Turlock, CA
Jun 25, 2017

Great climb! I am on the shorter side, but I felt like clipping the anchors was the crux. Anyone else have issues with this?

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