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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Rob Turan
Page Views: 4,697
Submitted By: Chuck Parks on Feb 24, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (113)
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Climb up a large hunk of rock, then up the arete past an overhang. Continue up the arete to anchors near the top. Tall and exposed, it shares the same great view as Spawn.


Just right of Spawn, on the arete you pass under when you come to the wire hand-line leading to the Solstice Cave.


10 bolts, anchors

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 9, 2016
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 25, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

although aesthetic, this route should probably be avoided as its poorly bolted and continues needlessly higher than it should. rope drag is a BIG problem on this route and its a PITA to clean.
By Gary Owen
Mar 5, 2011

Harsh...I enjoyed it and didn't have any issues with bolting or drag.
By Dylan Demyanek
From: Fort Collins, CO
Oct 20, 2011

There are issues with rope drag, but nothing that a few runners can't fix. Anyways, this route is one of the best 9s in the east and is well worth it. I personally love the final 20' "extension" at the top.
By saxfiend
From: Decatur, GA
May 21, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Lots to like about this route. Long and sustained with a lot of variety and great exposure. I had no problems whatsoever with rope drag or cleaning. Excellent lead!
By Seth Derr
From: harrisburg, pa
Oct 15, 2012

I didn't have any issues with drag, but i do agree the last couple bolts don't add anything to the route. Fun climbing up the arete for sure.
By Jeff Edge
Mar 13, 2013

Getting onto/around that big block at the start is always harder or more awkward than I remember... First time I led this was a long time ago, and only got on it to get my draws back after I bailed off of Spawn due to me being a total noob back then, and my partner even newer. Great route though, certainly one of the better 9s around, and climbing high is fun for a lot of us even if it doesn't "add" anything.
By Tradtime
From: Tennessee
May 21, 2013

Warning: The first set of anchors are worn to a deadly degree. Do not toprope or rappel off them. Sling chicken head to the right of bad anchors to back them up. Make one more move to the top for better ring anchors.

  • additional beta* - for the first 3 clips, use longer quickdraws or slings to avoid rope drag. Top belay your partner up for easiest cleaning - cleaning on rappel is difficult. Use the good anchors at the top not the first set of death ones. Bring sling and biner for chicken head. Overall fun, well protected, and easy for the grade.
By khowe
From: Knoxville, TN
May 9, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I had no problem with rope drag and I enjoyed the last 20' of the climb - great views. We also didn't find the route hard to clean, we just climbed through the gear and cleaned it no problem. Fun route for the grade with a powerful move under the small roof.
By Cassi Haggard
Nov 11, 2014

Didn't notice anything wrong with anchors when I cleaned it yesterday. The cold-shuts that the guidebook claims this wall has are all gone. Rope drag is an issue but I wouldn't say it's poor bolted (unless you mean overbolted) because I'm not sure how else they're supposed to bolt it with the way it goes around the arete. Really fun for a 5.9 with some unusual exposure and a great view. The exposure is good for someone working on their lead head.
By Nick Metzger
From: Chattanooga, TN
Mar 26, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

"Second Best Seat in The House"
By Nick Brennan
From: Concord, NH
Mar 9, 2016

I used slings for the first two bolts and a long sport draw (12"?) on the third, and 8" quick draws on the rest. Rope drag was negligible and my partner cleaned it on TR. Good climb, wanders a little and has a definite crux. Fantastic view. Might psych-out the marginal 9 leader.

We ended the pitch at the shiny, new rings and bolts just before the final ledge where the rusty open shuts are.

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