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Shadowfox 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tim Olson, Greg Lyon
Season: summer/fall
Page Views: 953
Submitted By: phillip Hranicka on Jun 16, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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It's really not as nasty as it looks. Optional mi...

Carver cliff is on PRIVATE PROPERTY! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Let's reclaim this forgotten gem- Start in the wide right side of the Combination Block and traverse right to the thin crack. Still dirty, but will get clean with traffic. The original anchor was off to the right as the crack peters out, but a more logical finish follows the crack left towards Wally Street. Keep an eye out for helpful pockets and edges on the right as you climb.

Location 

This route starts immediately right of the Combination Block. Follow the obvious crack splitting the face to an anchor.

Protection 

This crack eats up nuts and small cams (no larger than .5").


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By another Chad
May 12, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

After the traverse, the crack will eat up nuts all the way to the anchor. This climb is fun and a good introduction to nut-craft.

Chad
By Joe Westersund
Sep 9, 2017

If you're a new trad lead like me, I wouldn't recommend this one as a place to push your grade. I thought the section after the bolt and the traverse right was awkward to protect if you're trying to sew it up, with relatively insecure footholds and not-great nut placements. Pretty mossy as of Sept 2017, may be different as it cleans up. But, as mentioned, I'm a noob.
By bryans
Sep 11, 2017
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I placed two great .75 BD cams after the bolt, about 15 feet apart. In between them are some mossy and insecure stances that make it tough to hang out and place the small nuts that protect this section. This section, combined with the mandatory unprotected finish to the anchor (not to mention the dirty and awkward crux at the bolt), make this short route pretty heady for new 5-8 trad leaders. If clean, short but stout 5-8, but right now 5-9ish and spooky.

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