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Middle Earth
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Unsorted Routes:

Shadowfax 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 4,105
Submitted By: david baker on Jan 31, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (75)
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Clipping the big stuff on Shadowfax.

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Shadowfax is the first climb you come to as you reach Middle Earth heading up from the south start of the climbers loop trail. Shadow Fax is a hand crack that widens to slightly off width as you get near the top. The crux comes near the bottom of the climb where the crack moves slightly right with insecure feet (look to the small cracks to your right for help). The climbing is excellent and is good practice to improve your crack skills. The climb can be top roped by walking around the back of the rock and scrambling up to the anchor. The crack is easily protectable and should be led.

Protection 

.5 to # 3 (a #4 can be used just don't admitt it to anybody). Bolt anchor and rap rings at top of climb.


Photos of Shadowfax Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Shadowfax from the bottom
BETA PHOTO: Shadowfax from the bottom
Rock Climbing Photo: Sebastion jamming the crack Shadowfax.
Sebastion jamming the crack Shadowfax.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sebastion uses his big gear on Shadowfax.
Sebastion uses his big gear on Shadowfax.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sebastion heading up Shadowfax, the tough 5.8 hand...
Sebastion heading up Shadowfax, the tough 5.8 hand...
Rock Climbing Photo: Shadow fax is the crack
Shadow fax is the crack
Rock Climbing Photo: Shadowfax (5.8). Climber TRing Black Rider to the ...
Shadowfax (5.8). Climber TRing Black Rider to the ...

Comments on Shadowfax Add Comment
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By Obi
From: Portland, OR
Feb 23, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A good clean crack. The crux is awkward rather than hard. Too bad it's not longer.
By Kyle Wills
From: Chicago, IL
Dec 10, 2010

There just is very little reason to walk past this climb. Its a great warm up for harder cracks in the area.
By alleyehave
From: San Diego, CA
Jun 23, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

As I understand it, the route has two starts. The direct start has been rated 5.9 while the lieback start to the right considered 5.8. The lieback start is significantly easier but the protection could be tricky if you dont place a piece, downclimb a step or two and then start. I recommend the direct start :)
By Rich Welker
From: Cardiff, Ca
Jun 20, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I'd say it's fair to call the direct start a 5.9. Haven't tried the layback method.
By Adam T.
From: San Diego, CA
Jul 25, 2016
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

For me, the start fits my hands perfect and is not the crux. The crux imo is where the crack widens towards the top and it is hard to get both feet in the crack due to the angle. It definitely felt harder than the very nice 5.8, Craig's Crack.
By Josh Clift
From: San Diego, CA
Oct 23, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

5.8 climb with good stem feet to pull over the pod on very positive jams up into a bomber foot jam just above the pod.

This is one of my favorite climbs in mission gorge and a good idea for what to expect at the grade in this area.