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Maltese Falcon Cliff
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Maltese Falcon S 
Shadow S 

Shadow 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Dave Bengston, 1990
Page Views: 104
Submitted By: Tom Helvie on Jul 21, 2006

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Description 

This steep arete sits around the corner to the left of the other routes and like its name, is in the shade all the time. The climb starts with technical pockets and edges up to a big pocket jug. From here a quick layback up the arete leads to a double sided flake/rest. The clip after the rest is very difficult(esp. for short people) and there is velcro for setting up a "reachable" long draw. The next section is the bouldery crux moving out left to gain a large hueco. Steep jugs lead from here. Great bouldery route other than the hard clip.

Protection 

6 quickdraws to anchors


Comments on Shadow Add Comment
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By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Oct 12, 2010

What exactly is velcro for a "reachable" long draw mean? Surely this doesn't mean that the FA glued velcro to the rock?
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Nov 3, 2010

I'm sure it does.

Personally, I prefer duct tape:


Rock Climbing Photo: Duct Tape to hold draw in place for reachy/despara...
Duct Tape to hold draw in place for reachy/desparate clips
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Nov 9, 2010

Excuse my naïvety, but couldn't this be accomplished by bolting the route better? The duct tape is funny though.
By Tom Helvie
From: Bishop, CA
Nov 9, 2010

"Surely this doesn't mean that the FA glued velcro to the rock?
couldn't this be accomplished by bolting the route better?"

I doubt the FA put the velcro there on this route. He may have been taller and not needed it and thought the bolt was in the perfect spot. I think the velcro was added later by a shorter climber and may have been removed by now.
By Dave Medara
Aug 7, 2013

Anyone know what the route to the left of "the Shadow" is? Looks like a nice arête climb but it is not in the Lewis/Moynier book for the area.
By C Miller
Administrator
From: CA
Aug 7, 2013

The line to the left of Shadow is an old 5.13a TR problem which was, I think, bolted and led by Lonnie Kauk.
By Pablo-Roberts
From: Prescott, Arizona
Jul 24, 2016

Can anyone confirm that above statement? I've also been curious about it.

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