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A Flake Called Lee T,TR 
Black Planet T,TR 
Bloodguard T,TR 
Butterfingers T,TR 
Butterfingers Right T,TR 
Cave Route, The T 
Cording T,TR 
For Short People Only T,TR 
Go Ballistic T,TR 
Hyper-Gamma Spaces TR 
I Am a Cam TR 
In Your Head T 
Rhythm Roof TR 
Seven Wishes T,TR 
Shadow Warrior T,TR 
Space Dwarves TR 
Sugarloaf Arete T,TR 
White Quartz Wielder T,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Shadow Warrior 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
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Page Views: 151
Submitted By: Spencer Perry on Aug 7, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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  • Description 

    Climb up the ramp under the Hyper-Gamma-Spaces roof. Awkwardly stem and mantle your way up into the corner under the roof and delicately step right around the roof. Once on the face, the climbing gets substantially easier.

    Location 

    Under the massive roof to the right of For Short People Only.

    Protection 

    I was able to place a #.75 and #2 C4 in the shallow flare in the bottom of the corner, before stepping of the ramp. Once up a little higher, I plugged a #.4 C4 in the small pod in the seam between the roof and the face. You may be able to fit an offset nut in the seam instead (which would probably be a better placement). Once around the corner there is more finger sized gear available if you want it.

    Though you can place gear, the crux piece (#.4 C4) is in a very shallow pod. I would not want to take a serious fall on it because if it does not hold, you will hit the ramp.

    Can top rope this using same anchor as In Your Head.


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    By Spencer Perry
    Aug 7, 2016

    Not sure if people lead this one often. The first time I tried it I placed a black tri-cam in the pod under the roof and fell. It did not hold (but the .75 and 2 C4s did) and I hit the ramp below. I was able to put my bodyweight on the .4 C4, but given the shallow and slimy nature of the pod, I would not want to take a real fall on it.

    Also, maybe it was just in my head, but this felt substantially harder than the other 5.9 leads I have done at Sugarloaf (Little Herc on the Pillar and Fire in Devil's Kitchen). Something about being smearing on overhung rock with no hands felt a little stout, granted, the rock was a little wet.

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