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Shadow of a Hangdog (aka Fat Fingers) 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,396
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (63)
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Dave taking a sweet fall at the crux.


Climb the crack system just right of Brain Cloud, a noticable arete sticking out, about 40 yardswest of the top access between Table Top and Industrial Buttress. The lower crack system ends at a small roof, with a clean looking 1" wide crack running up and slightly left.


Stoppers and #2 cams. TR access is via Brain Cloud, 5.9, or from the top (be careful, as the bolts are on a ledge about 15 feet below the top - belay recommended). Some long slings (10 foot) are nice to save wear and tear on the rope.

Photos of Shadow of a Hangdog (aka Fat Fingers) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the roof on "Shadow of a Hangdog"...
Nearing the roof on "Shadow of a Hangdog"...
Rock Climbing Photo: Josh Darnell climbing through crux on "Shadow...
Josh Darnell climbing through crux on "Shadow...
Rock Climbing Photo: Gordo getting in some rehab.  So, probably 15 year...
Gordo getting in some rehab. So, probably 15 year...
Rock Climbing Photo: "Please make sure your seatbelts are securely...
"Please make sure your seatbelts are securely...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike rapping off fat fingers. The route gets its n...
Mike rapping off fat fingers. The route gets its n...

Comments on Shadow of a Hangdog (aka Fat Fingers) Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 13, 2017
By Doug Redosh
From: Golden, CO
Jan 8, 2003
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The Peter Hubbel guidebook calls this route "Fat Fingers". A sandbag at 10a/b. I have tried to climb this several times over several years, first on lead, then TR. More like 10d/11a. It requires a difficult layback with one's feet very close to the body. There is now a cam stuck in the crack several feet below the roof. See my comments on Brain Cloud re: other routes one can TR from the same anchors.
By Anthony Everhart
Feb 23, 2003

I don't think this route is a sandbag, but it is definitely solid for the grade. Careful footwork and good off-finger (#0.75 Camalot) jamming technique will get you through the crux. If you're trying to layback the crux, it would be much much harder. A good varied trad lead with a sweet crux.
By richard berk
From: Denver, CO
Feb 24, 2003

My brother (Scott Berk), Jeffery Brown, and I did the first ascent of this sometime in the late '80s - don't remember who got up first. We named it Shadow of a Hangdog. I do remember connecting two wires for extended reach in protecting the crux. I really don't think it harder than 5.10b - just a tricky couple of moves requiring (as Anthony Everhart says) good off-finger technique.
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 14, 2003

The little overhang in the crack near the top is awesome. I wouldn't have had so much trouble if my forearms weren't so pumped, I looked like Pop-eye when I got to the ground. The bottom is way tough which makes the top even tougher. Fun ass climb though.
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 9, 2003

Various guidebooks refer to this climb as "Fat Fingers." I can believe that. I tried everything I could think of to get a lock in that crack that splits the small roof on this climb to no avail. Seconds later I became the namesake "hangdog" although there was nothing incorporeal about it. Not sure of the origin of the name - maybe those hanging at the crux pondering the question of how to get a lock in the off-fingers crack bathe their belayer in a "shadow of a hangdog" if the sun is in the right spot? What an amusing name!
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 9, 2003

This climb is listed under both its names. My original comments are hereby appended (and edited) to the more frequented listing:

"Fat Fingers" - a less amusing name, but probably more indicative of the crux's difficulties. I tried everything I could think of to get a lock in that crack that splits the small roof on this climb to no avail. Seconds later I became the namesake "hangdog" although there was nothing incorporeal about it.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 9, 2003

By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Sep 9, 2003

If you reach high in the crack, there is a hidden edge. If I remember correctly, it was half way up the off finger section on the left side. Using this crimp and jamming at the same time, may get you through the crux.
By richard berk
From: Denver, CO
Sep 10, 2003

AC, that is where the name "Shadow of a Hangdog" came from. Don't remember where our shadows were projected (my brother, a friend and I put up the route sometime around '88) but I do remember staring at my shadow as I hung trying to figure out that move.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 17, 2003
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The 2-star rating I gave this climb is reflective of the location it is in. There are better climbs at Table, and far better climbs other places, but I am taking into account that The Naked Edge is not at Table....

5.10b or 5.10c. The move is kinda hard, and your hands can't get too far in. Fat fingers? I guess so. I half-hand-jammed it.

Rack is cams tiny-2" and a few nuts. You can clip the bolts on Brain Cloud for 1/2 of the route with 2' runners if you want to.
By Edward Jenner
Feb 27, 2004

I had more fun doing this as an A0 (A1 if you deliberately use suspect nuts where you could use a cam) than toproping it. Even if this is 10b, I don't think I want to learn how to jam that thing with my fingers. Better to get strong enouth to do the layback moves.
By Brandon Bogardus
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Apr 3, 2006

It's a sandbag route. 5.11-.
By Ryan Bibler
From: MT
May 1, 2006

Yep, I've hung on this one too. The guidebook calls this .10a, but getting your feet above the small roof while trying desperately to jam the crack is a 10b or 10c move for sure.
By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Nov 9, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Easy for a 5.10. I give it a 5.10a. You don't need to jam the crack. Set up a good layback and get your feet super high and you can muscle right through the overhang.
By Ian
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 20, 2007

The crack above the roof is not unlike Coyne Crack at Indian Creek, and that's rated 11+. Rating a climb that involves a few ring-locks over a roof 10a is a bit stiff.
By Sam Benedict
From: Denver, CO
Sep 26, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is probably the coolest route at N. Table. It’s really not that hard if you know how to rock climb (bwah ha ha). You only need to make one ring lock move, or you could lay it back and it would be like 10+. Or you could aid up it using only knotted webbing (H to the C).
By Ralph Kolva
From: Evergreen, CO
Oct 15, 2007

IMHO among the more interesting climbs at Table. Very safe lead as there is a bomber jam before the crux that allows pro placement at the hardest move/s. I did the strenuous layback version through the crux, have to try the ring locks next time, but it does seem a bit wide for my fingers. Would have to say that at 10a this climb felt a bit harder than other easy 10s at Table.
By Kris Holub
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jun 8, 2014
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

The first couple of times I got on this route I was sure it was a massive sandbag, but now that it has become a staple of my North Table outings, I agree with the 10- rating. The crux is much more manageable with good ratchet jamming technique and is really only a move or two of the difficult jams. The route is surprisingly footwork-oriented and has a number of good rests. This is an excellent first introduction to 10s for the hesitant leader looking to break into the grade; the falls are clean, the gear is ridiculously bomber, and you get good rests and stances to place from before pulling the hardest moves. Great route!

Detailed beta for anyone struggling with the crux: from the hand-jam stance below the roof, reach as high as you can and get a locker ratchet/ringlock with your right hand (don't crux yourself by placing a 0.75 too high). Work your feet up high right below the roof. Stand up and make a long reach for a good hold on the left side of the crack near the top. Short people might not be able to do it in one move, which means they will have to use a marginal, half-assed, thin hands jam with their left hand (look for a crimper inside the crack on the left) and possibly bump the right hand ratchet up. Once you have the good hold at the top of the crack, it's smooth sailing to the anchors.
By two chains
From: Fucken Zion
Apr 13, 2017

SoaH is 8+. Go to The Creek, and climb a 160 foot 10+, and try to tell me it's even close to this climb. Sack up, you Royal nerds.

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