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The Wicked Cave
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Sexy Beast S 
Shades S 
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YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Marty Alfred
Page Views: 161
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Dec 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Shades is the rightmost route in the Wicked Cave proper and the easiest line in the cave. Despite all this, it never sees any traffic and has long since been reclaimed by spiders and silt.

Were this route to receive a proper cleaning it would actually be pretty fun -- fun, that is, until the top bit, which involves doing your best not to stem out to a semi-detached flake the size of a volkswagen bus just five feet to your right.

Some choss is simply too big to even think of trundling; maybe the flake will just fall off itself. Or maybe the bolts could be moved a bit further left.

Anyway, start low in the chossy band, move through porous rock on sharp pockets, then punch up the sustained, bulgy face above. When the angle eases so does the difficulty -- just don't stem out to that block!


14 draws and a 60 meter rope.

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By D-Storm
Jan 25, 2012

I thought this one was pretty fun to climb in January, when I did it a few years ago. It stayed drier than some other routes in the cave and got lots of sun. I would climb on this between ice climbs in the morning and afternoon.
By Shirtless Mike
From: Denver, CO
May 22, 2016

I've heard this one has cleaned up a bunch in the last few years. Felt like a pretty quality climb to me. The large death blocks are still there at the top, they looked solid enough, but probably best to avoid them. Almost three stars.
By aggressiveperfector
Sep 24, 2016

Awesome climb.... It'd be ever more awesomer if it was rebolted more better..., but that goes for quite some many more climbs in the canyon.

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