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Shade Runner 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 870', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Paul Ross Patrick Moe. Oct 25th/2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,815
Submitted By: USBRIT on Oct 30, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Nice ledge on top of pitch 5.


A moderate climb on good rock, only the first pitch has one or two thin moves protected by bolts. An excellent introduction to the longer climbs on the Reef. Starts in the corner about 30' left of the Arrowhead route.
P1). Up the corner passed 3 bolts to double anchors.170'5.8R
P2).Straight up... nice climbing 150'5.4R
P3)Continue up the corner to double anchors,avoid some loose blocks to the right. 200'5.5R.
P4)Continue up the corner to double anchors.200'5.5R.
P5).A short piece of slab to a ledge (The Rap anchors of Arrowhead can be seen a few feet down to the right)continue straight up to the summit and Register in Cairn. 150'5.6R.
Descent. Scramble to the left from summit and traverse to the Rap Anchors of Arrowhead.Rap down Arrowhead or Shade Runner.The anchors on Shade Runner will need Rap slings.


Located just left of the route Arrowhead .,. See Photo. Hike from the pull off at Little Wolf Canyon ...2.1 miles from I.70 on the Reef dirt road


Cams .3 to #2 camalots. Two 60m ropes ,slings.

Photos of Shade Runner Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pat on last scramble to the summit.
Pat on last scramble to the summit.
Rock Climbing Photo: Johnny and Stella Adams (UK) having miners sandwic...
Johnny and Stella Adams (UK) having miners sandwic...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pat on Pitch 3
Pat on Pitch 3
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 3 .Photo Pat Moe
Pitch 3 .Photo Pat Moe
Rock Climbing Photo: Higher on Pitch 2 . Photo Pat Moe
Higher on Pitch 2 . Photo Pat Moe
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul on first pitch.Stella Adams on Arrowhead up t...
Paul on first pitch.Stella Adams on Arrowhead up t...
Rock Climbing Photo: A)Arrowhead 5.8.B)Shade Runner 5.8. C)Upper part o...
A)Arrowhead 5.8.B)Shade Runner 5.8. C)Upper part o...

Comments on Shade Runner Add Comment
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By Sean Hansen
From: Midvale, UT
Mar 18, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X

I think this climb would not be the best introduction to climbing at the swells.
The first pitch is a great 5.8r and has the 3 good bolts and some good small pro I used a 00 tcu. I would recommend taking small to medium stoppers, I could have used them. The second pitch has pro for the first 40 feet then nothing until the anchors. So be careful and do not fall it has some bad rock on this pitch and a couple of 5.6 moves. we would rate it 5.6x due to a possible fall up to 200 feet. Pitch 3 had easy enough climbing but the pro was not solid 5.5x. Pitch 4 was sketchy the only piece of pro that may have held a fall was a 00 tcu 20 feet above the belay. I would consider this pitch to be 5.6x as well and it had a lot of bad rock. The last pitch was fun at 5.6r and view from the summit is amazing. We rapped down Arrowhead. The approach for this climb starts In the same wash for spotted wolf canyon only stay in the wash once the wash turns and your heading south there will be 2 washes that feed into this main wash from the right take the second one and follow it taking the left at the split. then follow this to the base of the cliff that forms the slot canyon. you can scramble up the left side of the pools to the slot canyon that leads back to the wall. Over all it was a fun adventure just be prepared for no pro with up to 5.6 moves on some of the pitches.
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Mar 20, 2015

Thanks for your comments on this climb. I have a feeling that this sandstone rock is still on the move... lets say after winter storms ?. I have noticed when the odd times I did a repeat ascent a year or two later on one of the slab climbs that there was some loose rock that I would have thought we would have had to removed on the FA. Its a thought ! . Anyway most of these climbs have had very few ascents I suspect yours was only the second ascent. Like all climbs more ascents should improve the loose rock problem .. With regards the run outs perhaps due myself being very familiar with this type of climbing I did not feel concerned . Climbing is a after all a very personal experience.. Glad you had a good adventure with great views .. Stick at it ...I am impressed with your repeats..
By Sean Hansen
From: Midvale, UT
Apr 21, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X

Thank you for all of the hard work in establishing these routes. They are a lot of fun. I agree with you I am sure the rock does change over time. I am getting more used to the rock and run outs with each climb I do in the swells. For this climb in particular I probably chose the wrong line a time or two and ended up on fragile rock which is all a part of the adventure. Thanks for the encouragement as well.
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Apr 22, 2015

I think perhaps you should next try the Faith Hope and Clarity /Sinister Slab area . After the first two pitches you will hit some of the best of the slab rock and pretty good pro.Your right it takes awhile to get used to this type of climbing ...and it does gets easier as time goes on . Stick at it. Back from the UK for a couple of weeks ....sun in the Swell ..I hope
By Casey Parker
Sep 6, 2016

Unless you are super solid on sand stone slab, I wouldn't recommend this route. Looking back, I would not do it again because it was too run out and sketchy for my ability level (Mental and physical). As mentioned before, there was a lot of bad rock and it got to the point where I just couldn't trust many holds. I wasn't quite sure how to anchor off the last pitch. I never saw any bolts. I just slung a couple of boulders where it levels off near the top. The rap off of Arrow head was kind of annoying because it was such a low angle and the pitches were long. It made rope management difficult.
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Sep 6, 2016

Well done Casey for completing the climb ... Welcome to Adventure Climbing ... I see you mainly like sport climbs ....Well you will remember these climbs longer than a line of bolts ... I was a young lad of 71 when I did the FA of this route so don't feel bad about having a hard time.. Try Three Finger Canyon next time bit better rock and you might find the odd bolt ..
By Roy Suggett
Sep 7, 2016

Well said Paul!

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