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Can Gan Dionis
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Massa Temps Sense Piano S 
S'ha de Badar S 

S'ha de Badar 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
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Page Views: 108
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 9, 2009

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S'ha de Badar climbs the line of pockets in the gr...

Description 

This fun-looking line of what appears to be pockets sits innocently to the left of Massa Temps. S'ha de Badar is a full-value, balance slab of slopers and shallow dishes. The climbing is tricky, sequential, and surprisingly powerful for a route of this angle.

Begin up Massa Temps, but cut left after the first bolt along a pair of shallow horizontal breaks. Follow polished dishes up to a cruxy reach to awful slopers. Continue to the horizontal break even with the Massa Temps roof, then traverse left to a scoop. Head up to a vertical pod, then make a few more thin moves to the anchor.

Location 

At the far right end of Can Gan Dionis, climbing the line of bolts left of Massa Temps Sense Piano (the stunning orange left-facing dihedral). Shares the first bolt with Massa Temps....

Protection 

Bolts to 2BA. The first bolt is rather high so a stick clip is advised.


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