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Sexy Ogre to East Ridge of North Peak 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 1200', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R [details]
Page Views: 547
Submitted By: Stewart M. Green on Nov 14, 2007

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A long, fun, easy route to the top of North Peak, which is an obvious slabby peak easily seen from I-70. It's a good easily accessed starter route on the complex east slabs. The East Ridge itself was previously climbed and has a single bolt rap anchor up high.

Pitch 1: Climb a thin left-angling corner/crack (5.7R) and then up right onto an easier black slab. Continue (5.4 R) to a high bolt. Climb up (5.7) or right (5.6) to a flake. Climb the left side of the flake 20 feet to a good ledge with a 1-bolt and gear belay. 200 feet.

Pitch 2: Smear up a nice slab (5.4 R) to a steeper section and a bolt. Friction moves (5.7) lead up to a ledge and 1 drilled piton belay below a hump. 175 feet.

Rappel from here with double 200-foot ropes or climb down south to the top of a pour-off and below a slot canyon. Scramble 800 feet up the rounded East Ridge, following whatever course suits you and making it either easy or easier. About two-thirds up the ridge, climb a 200-foot pitch (5.0 R) left of a steeper rotten face. At the top of this pitch is a single rappel bolt placed by a previous party. Scramble to the summit from here.

Descent: Downclimb the upper slabs to the rappel bolt. Rappel 200 feet and then scramble back down to the top of Sexy Ogre. Make 2 double-rope rappels (175 feet and 200 feet) from single anchors back to the cliff base.


Finding the cliff: Drive south from I-70 for almost 2 miles and park on the right (west) in an obvious campsite/parking area just before a wash. Hike west on a trail along the wash for a quarter mile until it makes a sharp left. Continue straight and scramble up a slabby pour-off. Hike west up the brushy wash to the base of a large slabby buttress. The route begins on the left side of the face and just right of a deep chimney/pour-off.


Rack: Small selection of Stoppers, TCUs, and small cams; 2 200-foot ropes

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From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Nov 15, 2007

I must point out that there are a number of new routes on the slabs that we have not recorded on Mt Project. I think you will find this is one of them. If correct we did this route in June 2003, (the second pitch could be different to where we climbed? We just went up to the left after the first pitch and then mainly 4th classed with odd use of the rope) . Most of the first pitch is the same .You did find the only bolt we placed on the route, we used it for pro and the rap descent as yourselves.Instead of rapping the first pitches on the descent we found a way to the south of the formation that we could 4th class to the ground. The route we named The Auguille du Gieant II 5.5 R (P1). We named a big formation about 5 mins walk up Little Spotted Wolf Canyon on the left "North Peak" and did a 2000' route we named "North Ridge" III 5.6 up the right northern ridge."North Ridge" is also not recorded on Mt Project.There are at least 5 more routes nearby that are not recorded on Mt Project..There is still a lot of unclimbed rock in the 6 miles of slabs , so don't be discouraged.....

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