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Sexy Beast 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Dave Pegg
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,200
Submitted By: D-Storm on Apr 12, 2012

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This could become a decent warmup for other routes in the cave.

Tiptoe up through about 12 feet of choss to the first bolt. The climbing only gets better from here. Fun 5.11ish climbing on sharp jugs gets you pumped and leads to a decent rest on a big sidepull/undercling where an uncomfortable kneebar can be had. From there, launch into a devious sequence of slippery sidepulls and sloping rails with bad feet to establish on the slab. By now, you're on some of Rifle's best rock — the bullet gray stone with shallow pockets and incut edges. The hardest moves are over but the pump stays with you to the end as you make long reaches from sidepulls and back-steps.

Since this route is at the bottom of a huge slab, it is prone to get dirtier than others after rain and whatnot. Be ready for the slopers to feel desperate! Nonetheless, the climb is a good mix of steep jugs and technical slab.


It's the first route you see, slightly to right as the trail enters the main cave. "Shades" is the next route to the left.


It's around 9 bolts to the anchor, which has chains with biners.

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