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Louisville Swamp Boulder (S/W Twin Cities Metro, near Shakopee)
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Sexual Heeling 

Hueco: V1+ Font: 5

   
Type:  Boulder, 12'
Original:  Hueco: V1+ Font: 5 [details]
FA: Ryan Steel
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 356
Submitted By: Ryan Steel on Apr 14, 2014

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Description 

I didn't see this listed, so I thought I'd add this route that I worked on the other day (next time I go back, I plan on cleaning it up!). I'll also take some better pics next time I'm out there.

On the north side of the boulder, starting about 5 feet or so to the left of the mini-cave, sit-start with your hands on a long sloping ledge, then heel hook the ledge as you move hands up and match on the next big sloper (that's right before the left end of the mini-cave). Move your heel hook up, then flag your right leg out to an obviously good foot placement on the right side of the cave as you reach up for an obvious jug just above the mini-cave (slightly to the left-center above the cave). Then top out by following a small ridge line of slopers, pinches, and jug up and slightly to the left).

It's a really fun problem, and one of the few that I've seen so far on the boulder where you really rely on a couple of strong heel hooks. I was the only one to do it when I was out there, so the rating may not be right.

Location 

North side of the boulder, just to the left of the mini-cave.

Protection 

At least one pad to cover the rock edge on the ground by the mini-cave (don't want to fall on that!)


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By Matt Camelot
May 5, 2014

Nice add! I've climbed out of the cave but I didn't see the heel hook lead in.
By Ryan Steel
From: Twin Cities, MN
May 14, 2014

The heel hook is on the first sloping hold that you start off on, once you've moved your hands up to the next sloper. There isn't a ton for your feet below, so it seems like the natural heel hook. I then bumped my heel hook up as I grabbed for the hold on the top left corner of the cave once I made my way over to the cave. Then, once I had that hold, I flagged my foot out right across the cave, and then went up from there. Does that make sense? I've been meaning to get back on that and clean it up and take some photos, but just haven't had time. I hope that helps!

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