REI Community
West Buttress - South
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bug City T 
Claim Jumper S 
Drew's Corner T 
Enemy Combatant TR 
Grunt and Moan S 
Layback and Relax TR 
Poking Holes in the Firmament S 
Ryobi S 
Scorpio Rising S 
Sexcellent S 
Shock and Awe S 
Sqench S 
Tiers of Joy T 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Mike Engle, Chris Barnes, and Vernon Phinney
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 346
Submitted By: Mike Engle on Aug 17, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Sexcellent is the left line in red. P1 is 5.10. P2...

BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING MORE INFO >>>


P1 one is a very fun outing of ever steepening patina until you pull the 5.10 crux at the final bulge. P2: step up right to the edge of the arete and make a desperate but well protected 5.11 move to gain a line of patina to the anchors. P3: A short but nice 5.7 pitch takes you to the top of the formation. One 60 meter rope will get you down in 3 rappels.


On the center of Castle West Buttress - South right of "Olypus Wrecks" and left of "Tiers of Joy" in Dave Bingam's Castle Rocks guidebook. From a deep gully on the ground,stem out quickly onto the face and generally follow a patina line staying just left of right trending crack to an arete major feature. One 60 meter rope will get you down in 3 rappels.


About 12 quickdraws on 1st Pitch, about 9 on the 2nd, and 4 on the 3rd. Chain Anchors at the top of each pitch.

Comments on Sexcellent Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike Engle
From: Pocatello, Idaho
Aug 17, 2015

It's a little bold of me to give it 3 stars but it really is "Sexcellent" ;-)
By TS Burton
From: Ogden, Utah
Sep 9, 2015
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

A really nice addition to the area. Enjoyed the committing and airy 2nd pitch crux! As you contemplate the move, you may catch yourself wishing you were on the 5.7 route directly below.
From: Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
Apr 26, 2016

Pretty darn hard move there on the second pitch. Not sure what I would call it, since I finally just grabbed the bolt.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About