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West Buttress - South
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Ryobi S 
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Sexcellent S 
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Unsorted Routes:

Sexcellent 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Mike Engle, Chris Barnes, and Vernon Phinney
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 346
Submitted By: Mike Engle on Aug 17, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Sexcellent is the left line in red. P1 is 5.10. P2...

BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING MORE INFO >>>

Description 

P1 one is a very fun outing of ever steepening patina until you pull the 5.10 crux at the final bulge. P2: step up right to the edge of the arete and make a desperate but well protected 5.11 move to gain a line of patina to the anchors. P3: A short but nice 5.7 pitch takes you to the top of the formation. One 60 meter rope will get you down in 3 rappels.

Location 

On the center of Castle West Buttress - South right of "Olypus Wrecks" and left of "Tiers of Joy" in Dave Bingam's Castle Rocks guidebook. From a deep gully on the ground,stem out quickly onto the face and generally follow a patina line staying just left of right trending crack to an arete major feature. One 60 meter rope will get you down in 3 rappels.

Protection 

About 12 quickdraws on 1st Pitch, about 9 on the 2nd, and 4 on the 3rd. Chain Anchors at the top of each pitch.


Comments on Sexcellent Add Comment
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By Mike Engle
Administrator
From: Pocatello, Idaho
Aug 17, 2015

It's a little bold of me to give it 3 stars but it really is "Sexcellent" ;-)
By TS Burton
From: Ogden, Utah
Sep 9, 2015
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

A really nice addition to the area. Enjoyed the committing and airy 2nd pitch crux! As you contemplate the move, you may catch yourself wishing you were on the 5.7 route directly below.
By RKM
From: Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
Apr 26, 2016

Pretty darn hard move there on the second pitch. Not sure what I would call it, since I finally just grabbed the bolt.

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