Type: Trad, Ice, 200 ft (61 m)
FA: Ben Collett, Erik Rieger
Page Views: 2,429 total · 19/month
Shared By: Erik Rieger on Nov 4, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
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Description Suggest change

There are a few ice flows located high above the Loch Vale cragging area. They've probably been climbed before. We climbed the obvious flow on the right after our planned route at Sky Pond didn't pan out. Ben suggested the name, since it's like a tame version of Necrophilia. It's worthwhile if you're desperate but not into the dead thing, or you could combine with the NW Gully and other short climbs. The leftmost flow is lower-angled.

Location Suggest change

This is on the northern aspect of Thatchtop, directly above the Loch Vale cragging area. Approach as for Deep Freeze/Necrophilia up to the lake, but move left (east) across the moraine bench below those routes to reach the smears. It's easy to see from the trail if they're in or not.

Protection Suggest change

We soloed the route, so there's no rap anchor. Build one or walk off skier's left down a technical and exposed gully. Protection would be thin on the first half, bring rock gear.

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Photos

The one we climbed—a long, thin flow left of the prominent gully.
The one we climbed—a long, thin flow left of th…
 1
The wall above Loch Vale showing various smears. Two of them could be well-formed in good conditions.
The wall above Loch Vale showing various smears…
 1

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