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Peg Leg Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Best For Your Stick S 
catch the wave S 
Chili Dog S 
close to the bone S 
Clutching At Straws S 
Corn Dog S 
Dough Daddy S 
Flamed, The Pumped, The French, The S 
men of iron T 
Miss Money Penny S 
Mr. Peg Leg Speed Work S 
Promised Land S 
Sex Wax S 
surf's up S 
Take It To The Bank S 
Unknown Short Warmup S 

Sex Wax 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mark Jero, Eric Harp, Kevin Gonzales, 1988
Season: warmer Shelf months (shady)
Page Views: 52
Submitted By: slim on May 25, 2014

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This is another burly warm-up at the Peg Leg Wall. In previous guidebooks ,this was listed at 11a. It is harder than Best For Your Stick but considerably easier than Corn Dog.

Begin from a table-like ledge (I recommend stick clipping first bolt), and make barndoor-ish moves up the face and arete, past many pockets and a couple more bolts to the anchor. It starts out a little bit steep and ends up on lower angled terrain.

There isn't much chalk, so expect to spend some time figuring out which pockets are good and which ones are not.


From where the trail meets the wall at the far right side of the wall underneath the roof route 'Adversary', walk left about a couple hundred feet. You will see a small trail that goes up to a deep, dark corner. On the left face of the corner is 'Best For Your Stick'. Around the arete to the left is Sex Wax. Scramble up and left onto a ledge that makes a nice seat.


3 or 4 bolts plus anchors. I recommend having your belayer up on the ledge and stick clipping the first bolt.

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