REI Community
Alisters Cave
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Diary of a Dope Fiend 
Sex Magician 
Sex Magician Sit Start 

Sex Magician Sit Start 

Hueco: V8 Font: 7B

Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V8 Font: 7B [details]
FA: Robert Miramontes
Page Views: 630
Submitted By: Blitzo on Apr 26, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: "Sex Magician Sit Start". Photo by Blitz...


Start in the cave at a jug and move out over the roof to the regular start.



Comments on Sex Magician Sit Start Add Comment
Show which comments
By Scott Cosgrove
Sep 17, 2013

Can't remember but we may of done this low start BITD (but I can't remember, so it's yours Rob), I know Croft finished by soloing up the crack at the end. Anyway, I think for me SM is a harder traverse than the Dope F. I'd flop the rating, SM V8 and DF - V7 although I wouldn't argue V9 for both.

The DF is more stretched out, move wise and the crux of the SM is very scrunched up, so it might be that I'm 6'2" and that's why I find one harder than the other.

Also, people need to realize how bad the quality of rock was on this things, I imagine it's pretty good now. But we were breaking stuff off and cratering onto the slab on a regular basis.

We always had at lest a couple of pads if not more. I also heard Fred N, did some hard stuff in the cave. Some projects are still there I think...

It sure is a cool local, and I hope people treat it with respect,,,,
Sep 18, 2013

That sit was such a rotting mess when I scoped it out. There was a sloping chunk that I kept rubbing my hand on and grains were just showering off of it endlessly. The only thing that motivated me to keep trying to clean it was that it was sooooo steep! I also did another nice low start below the crux of Sex Magician. Starts at some nice huecos and busts a huge campus-like move straight into the crux of SM - called that one Man's Right to Imagination and to Insanity (v5ish) Somehow, because of the way you link into SM crux, it makes that crux easier.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About