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Sex Canyon

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blood of the Dead (sangre de los muertos) S 
Bolus S 
Dark Energy S 
Friends and Lovers S 
High Anxiety S 
Hyper Salvation S 
Learning to Crawl S 
Learning to Fly S 
Let Them Eat Flake S 
Love is a Fist S 
Mistaken Identity S 
No Recess S 
Pulmonary Choss S 
Snaggletufad S 
Super Cruiser S 
Telegraph Road S 

Sex Canyon Rock Climbing 


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Administrators: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Nov 29, 2008  with updates from Nathaniel Biggs
Forecast:
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74°
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Rachel on through the hard bit of Let Them Eat Fla...

Description 

Nice overhanging wall with stalactites down low in places. Mostly shaded most of the day, stays dry in a light rain except for the tops of the routes. Routes mostly from 5.11 to 5.13 with one 5.10. A handful of drilled pockets and some glue on a few routes.

In the left group of routes there are a couple of routes in a prominent white swath of rock then a grey bulge that is home to Bros Before Hoes 5.12+ after this there are a handfull of "unknown" routes that climb out or to the right of a big low roof. The route out the seam in the roof is undone while the routes to the right are about 5.13-.

The center group of routes:
1. No Reccess 5.12
2. Learning to Crawl 5.12c (fixed draws)
3. Super Cruiser 5.13b (fixed cable draws)
4. Learning to Fly 5.12b
4.5. Hyper Salvation 5.13b (link up of 4 and 5 @ the 2nd bolt)
5. Bolus 5.12d (fixed draw on 3rd bolt)
6. Love is a Fist 5.12c
7. Let them Eat Flake 5.12-
8. Blood of the Dead 5.11b
9. Telagraph Road 5.11

The right group of routes:
11. Mistaken Identity 5.11c
12. Pulmonary Choss 5.10
13. the guide book lists a 3rd line but I did not see it...OH I found it, climbs extreamly fractured rock just right of the previous route

Getting There 

The long overhanging wall down canyon from the Sex Cave on the right.

Climbing Season

For the Reimer's Ranch area.

Weather station 8.4 miles from here

16 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',5],['5.12',7],['5.13',3],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Sex Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sex Canyon:
High Anxiety   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Blood of the Dead (sangre de los muertos)   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 30'   
Let Them Eat Flake   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 40'   
Dark Energy   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport   
Learning to Crawl   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, Chipped, 40'   
Super Cruiser   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 35'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sex Canyon

Featured Route For Sex Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Sarah Michaels makes a long clip in preparation fo...

Super Cruiser 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c  Texas : Reimer's Ranch : Sex Canyon
Crux is where you find it. Stalactites to start, slopers up to an OK rest above the second bolt from where you can clip the 3rd bolt. Crimpy campus moves lead up to slopers and eventually jugs below the anchor....[more]   Browse More Classics in Texas

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