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Sex Canyon

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blood of the Dead (sangre de los muertos) S 
Bolus S 
Dark Energy S 
Friends and Lovers S 
High Anxiety S 
Hyper Salvation S 
Learning to Crawl S 
Learning to Fly S 
Let Them Eat Flake S 
Love is a Fist S 
Mistaken Identity S 
No Recess S 
Pulmonary Choss S 
Super Cruiser S 
Telegraph Road S 

Sex Canyon Rock Climbing 

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Page Views: 6,178
Administrators: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Nov 29, 2008  with updates from Nathaniel Biggs

84° | 69°

93° | 75°

87° | 55°

73° | 49°

81° | 58°

85° | 65°
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Rachel on through the hard bit of Let Them Eat Fla...


Nice overhanging wall with stalactites down low in places. Mostly shaded most of the day, stays dry in a light rain except for the tops of the routes. Routes mostly from 5.11 to 5.13 with one 5.10. A handful of drilled pockets and some glue on a few routes.

In the left group of routes there are a couple of routes in a prominent white swath of rock then a grey bulge that is home to Bros Before Hoes 5.12+ after this there are a handfull of "unknown" routes that climb out or to the right of a big low roof. The route out the seam in the roof is undone while the routes to the right are about 5.13-.

The center group of routes:
1. No Reccess 5.12
2. Learning to Crawl 5.12c (fixed draws)
3. Super Cruiser 5.13b (fixed cable draws)
4. Learning to Fly 5.12b
4.5. Hyper Salvation 5.13b (link up of 4 and 5 @ the 2nd bolt)
5. Bolus 5.12d (fixed draw on 3rd bolt)
6. Love is a Fist 5.12c
7. Let them Eat Flake 5.12-
8. Blood of the Dead 5.11b
9. Telagraph Road 5.11

The right group of routes:
11. Mistaken Identity 5.11c
12. Pulmonary Choss 5.10
13. the guide book lists a 3rd line but I did not see it...OH I found it, climbs extreamly fractured rock just right of the previous route

Getting There 

The long overhanging wall down canyon from the Sex Cave on the right.

Climbing Season

Weather station 8.4 miles from here

15 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Sex Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sex Canyon:
Blood of the Dead (sangre de los muertos)   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 30'   
Let Them Eat Flake   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 40'   
Learning to Crawl   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, Chipped, 40'   
Super Cruiser   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 35'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sex Canyon

Featured Route For Sex Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Rachel just hitting the bottom of the "Flake&...

Let Them Eat Flake 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  Texas : Reimer's Ranch : Sex Canyon
Step to the right off of the boulder onto the face, work up to a jug sidepull. Then some difficult moves off of sidepulls with limited feet leads to the flake. Jugs take you out the steepening wall to an anchor over the lip. Easiest to clean by top roping....[more]   Browse More Classics in Texas

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