Type: Trad
FA: Paul Davidson, Steve Grossman
Page Views: 1,552 total · 7/month
Shared By: joe E lee on Feb 6, 2007
Admins: adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Fantastic route. Awkward start to a right facing corner with nice jamming and stiff stemming. After the crack, transition left to cool face climbing protected by small gear in incipient cracks. There was a bolt out left (optional) but it seemed too far out of the way and would ruin an all trad climb. Place thin fingertip pieces in your last tiny crack and then run out the face on easier terrain to the top. If you have a lot of rope drag, expect a battle.

Gear anchor at the top. Not obvious.

There are rappel anchors on the west side but I'm not sure how long the rappel is. We opted to downclimb the south side. Involves exposed easy fifth class climbing. Near the bottom, we downclimbed toward the west side. The descent is definitely rated x.

Location Suggest change

There is a gully between Mean Mistreater and Faded Rock. Climb the slab at the base of the gully to reach the route. I started at a broken right facing corner.

Protection Suggest change

Bring a full rack. If you can lead this route, one fist size is all you need. Rack down to micros for the upper section. Use long slings on all your pieces, otherwise, the rope drag might take you down on the runout finish.

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