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Set The Controls for the Heart of the Sun 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c R

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c R [details]
FA: Paul Craford an Karl Mc Conachie, 1972.
Page Views: 1,027
Submitted By: Blitzo on Dec 16, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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A live version of the song was done on "Ummag...

Description 

This climbs the smooth slab, a ways left of "Gemini Cracks", for three pitches. Start left of a black streak near the center of the slab, from a group of trees. Climb a 5.11 pitch past bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. A 5.10b pitch leads to a 2-bolt anchor. The last pitch is 5.8. Rappel the route.

Protection 

Draws.


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By Branden916 Lawson
Jan 9, 2012

I only climbed the first (5.11R) pitch and it was very good. The climbing requires you to pull solid slab moves pretty far out from your bolts, better be solid..

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