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The Matron
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East Ridge T 
Father Knows Best T,S 
North Crack T 
North Face T 
North Face Right T 
Pasta Man T 
Quiche on a Leash T 
Real Men Don't Eat Quiche T 
Serpentine Dreams S 
South Face T 
Sunday Comix T,TR 
Warlocks T 
West Face T,TR 

Serpentine Dreams 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: S. Annecone and B. Ruckman, Oct. 25, 2014
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer and Fall
Page Views: 1,727
Submitted By: Steve Annecone on Oct 28, 2014

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On an early TR... in the vicinity of the 5th bolt.

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  • Description 

    The route name was inspired by the rattlesnake we almost stepped on while approaching the climb, as well as the sinuous nature of the line.

    This climb goes up the steep and blank-looking panel of rock on the north face of the Matron. This part of the Matron reminds me of the Roof Routes in Eldorado. Climb up the chimney formed by the massive flake perched near the base, and stem across the gap to clip the first bolt. A nearby horn can be slung if the exposure feels too spooky.

    From the first bolt, pull onto a wild band of conglomerate knobs, and follow the rising, knobby traverse up and right past the first 4 bolts. This traverse is 5.11-ish and reminiscent of Velvet Elvis. A crack appears suddenly above the 4th bolt, and a piece of pro here will be helpful to better protect a tricky sequence working up to the 5th bolt.

    Crank up past the 6th bolt to the 7th, and arrive at a suddenly blank sheet of rock with few but mostly crisp and clean holds. The business of this pitch is climbing through the next 20 feet of thin climbing past 3 more bolts. There are lots of devious sequences, high steps, and interesting movement through there. Once through this section, larger holds allow easier 5.10 and 11- climbing to the arete (where it merges with the top of the West Face's 1st pitch) and then to the anchor.

    Location 

    The start is located about 20 feet right of Northwest Crack and about 30 feet left of Father Knows Best. It starts inside the obvious chimney.

    Rappel to the north or to the west from the existing 2-bolt anchor at the top of the first pitch of the West Face (those are nice, beefy glue-ins, as opposed to the scarefest bolts encountered lower on that pitch).

    Protection 

    All bolts (13) except for one 1.25-inch piece (#0.75 Camalot). An optional long sling can be used to protect the 5.8-ish moves to the high first bolt. Bring long over-the-shoulder slings if you are going to lower off at the anchor to reduce rope drag. If cleaning the pitch on rappel (not a bad idea to reduce wear on the anchor bolts and your rope), be sure to bring a 70-meter rope!


    Comments on Serpentine Dreams Add Comment
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    By Bret Ruckman
    Oct 29, 2014

    Using a 60m rope, we rappel-cleaned all the way down to the 2nd bolt, then finished rappelling to the base of the starting flake. From there, it was an easy TR of the first 12 feet to retrieve the quickdraw from the first bolt. By cleaning on rappel, it saved wear and tear on our rope and the anchor. However, with a 70m cord, you will have ample rope for this.
    This improbable route links up in a remarkable way--enjoy!
    By Bret Ruckman
    Jul 26, 2015

    A few more thoughts...
    1) For belaying the leader while behind the giant starting flake, we found the most comfortable spot to stand (and better see the climber) was about 15 feet east of the actual start. This gives a much better vantage point for the entire route.
    2) At the last bolt near the top, head straight right for the arete. Don't go straight up, as the rock degrades.
    3) I wanted to thank Eric Doub for allowing us to add a bolt or two to his old aid route called "In Spite of Love." His smashed-in wired hexentric, from 1980, came ripping out while we were using it as a directional piece.
    By climbinzs
    Sep 6, 2015
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    Great route and easily worth the hike!
    Climbs much better than it looks from the ground with a mix of edges and pockets.
    Felt stiff 12b with the draws on it and and chalk on the holds. To properly set up the anchor to lower, you need four shoulder length slings. Rap the route with a 70 meter rope to clean. Don't forget the 0.75 Camalot!
    By Lisa Montgomery
    From: Golden, CO
    Sep 7, 2015

    This route is absolutely stellar! The line ascends a shield of crisp red rock, starting in pebbles and then launching into thin face that would've looked blank without the preexisting chalk. The climbing was reminiscent of Fire and Ice in Eldo - footy, sequential, and difficult. Lots of shade!

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